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http://archive.org/details/descriptiveacc1828scot
DESCRIPTIVE ACCOUNT
OP THE
PRINCIPAL TOWNS
*N
TO ACCOMPANY
WOOD'S TOWN ATLAS.
EDINBURGH :
SOLD BY W. & A. K. JOHNSTON, ENGRAVERS, &
JAMES RITCHIE, STATIONER, HIGH STREET ;
AND W. SWINTON, PRINCE'S STREET.
1828.
Price with Atlas, Bound, £5 i 5*
'
PREFACE.
In submitting to the Public the accompa- nying Plans of the Burgh and other Towns of note in Scotland, the Publisher has been in- duced thereto by the solicitation of his Friends and a number of Subscribers, at whose sugges- tion a short account of each Town is added.
The developement of knowledge naturally increases the desire to obtain it ; and amongst Other means of exciting additional interest, the knowledge of our own Localities, though frequently neglected, is certainly not the least important. Our own Island still affords suffi- cient materials for the Antiquary, and the northern portion of it especially, not only il- lustrates, by its more ancient features, many
IV
of the most remarkable events recorded in our historic annals ; but presents, in the striking improvements of modern times, a spectacle highly gratifying to the Philanthropist, and to all who are interested in the science of Politi- cal Economy. It is therefore hoped, that the present Collection of Engraved Plans, executed with such precision, that even the smallest Dwelling-house is laid down, will be found useful, both as indicating the situation and present condition of many of those ancient habitations, which occupy so conspicuous a place in the history of former days, and as ex- emplifying the progress of improvement during recent times.
In a mercantile point of view, the work will serve the purpose of a Directory, by pointing out, not only the situation of such Towns as are distinguished for particular manufactures, but also, the precise spot where the manufactories are to be found ; while to those entrusted with the management of the Burghs themselves, the Plans will naturally suggest the best and most convenient mode of efFecting their future im- provement and extension.
These Plans have been for some time before the Public in a detached form, and are now presented collectively, accompanied by a To- pographical description of each Town, stating, as far as could be done, in a very abridged form, the staple Manufacture and Trade of each — its Municipal Government — Revenue- Religious Establishments — Schools — Banks — Markets — Fairs, &c. and a brief notice of any remarkable circumstances in the several loca- lities, which might interest national feeling, as well as prove attractive to the general reader and Tourist.
LIST OF SUBSCRIBERS.
His Grace the Duke of Gordon,
His Grace the Duke of Argyll,
His Grace the Duke of Buccleueh and
Queensberry, The Right Honourable Lord Montague, The Right Honourable the Earl of Rosslyn, The Right Honourable the Earl of Marr, The Right Honourable Lord Gwydir, The Right Honourable the Lord Chief Com- missioner, The Right Honourable Lord Minto, The Honourable General Hope, The Honourable Mr Maule, M. P. The Honourable Colonel Grant, M. P. The Honourable Admiral Fraser, Sir Walter Scott of Abbotsford, Bart, Sir David Monerieff, Bart.
Vlll
Sir John Hope,
Sir Patrick Walker,
Sir Robert Dundas,
Sir Henry Jardine,
Mrs General Carnegie,
Major-General William Grant,
Major-General Broughton,
Lieutenant-Colonel Gordon of Cluny,
John Hay, Esq.
John Kerr, Esq. W. S.
Norman M'Leod, Esq.
Alex. Tulloch, Esq.
William Innes, Esq. W. S.
Barclay Allardiee, Esq. of Ury,
John Low, Esq. of Hillton,
Captain G. Pringle, R. N.
Charles Hunter, Esq.
Andrew Skene, Esq. Advocate,
R. H. Moncrieff, Esq.
James Innes, Esq.
David Moncrieff, Esq.
Alex. Brown, Esq.
A. N. Macleod, Esq.
Doctor Bannerman,
T. Balfour, Esq.
Henry Raeburn, Esq*
Robert Stevenson, Esq.
John Johnson, Esq.
John Borthwick, Esq. Advocate,
IX
Adam Duff, Esq. Advocate, Thomas Grainger, Esq. Robert Ferguson, Esq. J. H. Rigg, Esq. William Clark, Esq. Lieutenant-Colonel Maclean, Norman Lockhart, Esq. W. S.
CONTENTS.
Page.
Aberdeen, - - - - 1
Annan, - - - 19
Arbroath, - - 23
Ayr, .--- SO
Banff, 39
Berwick, - - - - 4S
Brechin, - - 55
Crieff, - - - 61
Cupar Fife, • 65
Dalkeith, - - - 70
Dingwall, - - 76
DunbartorT, • - - 79
Dundee, - - - - 83
Dumfries, <• - - 91
Dunfermline, - 99
Dunkeid, - - « 105
Edinburgh, - - -. . 1 1 1
Elgin, - - . . . ]29
Forfar, - - - -135
Forres, - - 139
Glasgow, - - - . 117
Xll
Greenock, - - - 171
Haddington, - - - 181
Hamilton, - - - - 185
Hawick, - - - - - 191
Inverary, - - 199
Inverness, . * •> 203
Irvine, - - - - * 211
Jedburgh, - - * * 215
Kelso, - - - - - 221
Kilmarnock, • - 227
Kirkcaldy - - - - 233
Kinross, - - * * - 241
Lanark, - * 247
Leith, - - 253
Linlithgow, - «• * - 265
Montrose, - - - - 271
Nairn, - 277
Paisley, - - - 281
Peebles, - - 291
Perth, - * 297
Portobello, - - 309
Rothesay, - * - - 313
Selkirk, - ■> , 319
St Andrews, - 323
Stirling, - ^ 331
Stonehaven, * - 339
Stornowav, ... Si-5
HISTORY
OF THE
CITY OF ABERDEEN.
EDINBURGH :
PRINTED BY JOHN MOIE.
1825.
HISTORY OF ABERDEEN.
Aberdeen, the Capital of the County of the same name, is situated in North Latitude 57° 5', and 2° 24' West Longitude, from the Royal Observatory at Green- wich. It is divided into the Old and New Town. What is called the New Town, however, is in reality Nc$ the most ancient of the two, and only acquired its pre- to sent distinctive appellation when rebuilt after its de- v. struction by the English in the year 1336. The New ^| Town has in general a southern exposure, being situ- j ated on the north bank of the river Dee, at a short distance from its efflux into the sea. The Old Town, which may almost be regarded as a continuation of the New, stretches to the north. It consists of little more than one main street, and extends to the margin of a reach in the river Don, at the distance of nearly a mile from the sea.
The name Aberdeen, in the Gaelic Obairreadhain> signifies a space of ground between the confluence of two rivers. This appellation corresponds exactly with the situation of the town in ancient times. The river Don, till the beginning of the last century, had its course through the Old Town links, emptying itself into the ocean on the south side of the Broad-hill, near the north- east corner of the boundary of the city royalty ; —
A
4
and there is every reason to think, from the appearance of the ground, that at a remote period it joined the Dee a little to the east of the Castle-hill ; for existing docu- ments shew, that so lately as the reign of James V. the main channel of the Dee, unconfined by bulwarks as at present, skirted the high ground on which Castle-Street is built.
Aberdeen proper, or what has latterly been termed the New Town, is a place of very considerable antiquity. It appears to have been known to the Romans, under the name of Devana, towards the close of the first cen- tury of the Christian era. The few huts, of which at that time it must have consisted, seem to have been si- tuated in the immediate vicinity of the street now desig- nated the Green. This, with Shiprow, is unquestionably the most ancient part of the town. In the course of time, the buildings appear to have gradually extended up the ridge now occupied by Broad-Street and Gallow- gate. The Castle-hill appears to have been occupied at a remote period as a fortress ; but there were no houses on the south side of Castle-Street till after the commence- ment of the 16th century, and the low grounds adjoin- ing the quay were not gained from the river till about the middle of the 17th century. The streets already mentioned, with the Upper and Nether Kirkgate, were all that the town consisted of till after the period of the Reformation. The others are comparatively of modern erection. Queen-Street, North-Street, the houses on the Quay, Marischal-Street, Belmont-Street, and the suburb of Gilcomston, were built during the latter part of the last century. The greater part of Footdee, and almost all the other streets, have been erected within the last
"twenty years. The alterations and improvements which have taken place in the city of Aberdeen since the year 1800 are truly astonishing. Many old houses, which were of wood, have been taken down, and replaced by handsome structures of stone. Three spacious ap- proaches to the town have been formed, and carried in direct lines to the very centre of the city, by means of which the inconveniences of the old, narrow, and circui- tous routes are now entirely avoided. That from the north-west by Geoi-ge-Street is spacious and regular. The approach from the north-east by King-Street is handsome, and even elegant. The grand approaches, however, from the south and west particularly attract the notice of the stranger. These meet at Union-Place, and are conducted thence in a straight line through Un- ion-Street to the Cross. This street is carried over others by three bridges, one of which can boast of an arch 132 feet span, the largest and finest in Scotland. At the dis- tance of two miles, in each direction from the Cross, there are bridges over the rivers Dee and Don. The bridge of Don consists of a single Gothic arch, 67 feet span, and is romantically situated between two project- ing rocks which here confine the channel of the river. It was founded about the close of the 13th century, and the expence is said to have been defrayed by Bishop Cheyne, who then held the see of Aberdeen. The bridge of Dee was projected by the munificent Bishop Elphin- ston, the founder of King's College, and was finished by his successor Bishop Dunbar in the year 1520. It is a handsome and substantial structure of seven semi-circu- lar arches. Attached to each of these bridges, there was a chapel in the days of popery. Amongst the many im- provements connected with the city of Aberdeen, those
which have been made upon the harbour are conspicuous. In ancient times the only quay was a small piece of arti- ficial work near the Shore-brae and adjoining to Shiprow. In the year 1623 it was extended thence to Footdee, by which a considerable part of the basin was cut off, and converted into building ground. About twelve years ago, the quay was extended much farther down the channel, with the view of joining it to the pier at the mouth of the river. This pier, at the entrance to the harbour, was begun in the year 1755, and twenty years after was extended 1200 feet- into the ocean. Another addition to it of 900 feet was made about ten years ago ; and the work, a most magnificent one, is now completed in that quarter. The object of this great undertaking was to prevent the mouth of the river from being filled with sand, which it formerly was, during the prevalence of storms from the north-east. A breakwater from the southern shore, of about 800 feet in length, has also been constructed, for the purpose of contracting and deepening the channel, and of protecting the en- trance of the harbour from south-easterly storms. It is in contemplation, agreeably to the plan according to which these works have been constructed, to convert the whole of the interior of the harbour into a wet-dock, with flood-gates at the entrance, and the ground on the opposite side into sites for warehouses.
In connection with these details of the progressive ex- tension and improvement of Abebdeen, it will be satis- factory to ascertain the population of the city at differ- ent periods of its history. The earliest existing docu- ment which can throw light on this question, is a list of
heads of families liable to public assessments about the year 1400, from which the total number of inhabitants has been estimated at 2800, or perhaps 3000, — a popu- lation of no inconsiderable magnitude when the state of the several towns of Scotland at that time is taken into view. Its rank and importance in these days may be in- ferred from its position in the roll of royal burghs ; ha- ving occupied, in the year 1357, the second, and, in the year 1367, the first place, next to Edinburgh. From the register of baptisms, which commenced in the year 1572, the population of the city of Aberdeen proper, or the parish of St Nicholas, at that period, may be reckoned to have amounted to 3900, or 4000. The city appears to have increased rapidly, till the pestilence and the troubles in the reign of Charles I. arrested its progress ; for the register of baptisms shews a popula- tion, in the year 1603, of 6800 ; and in the year 1643, of 8900. From this last period the number of inhabitants appears to have gradually declined, till after the union of the kingdoms in the year 1707; which may be ac- counted for, both from the ungenial influence of a des- potic government, and the prevalence of pestilence and famine. In the year 1660, the population had decreased to 7800 ; in the year 1688, to 6900 ; and seven years subsequent famine reduced it, at the period of the union, to 5600. The above statements, however, do not in- clude the city of Old Aberdeen. In the year 1755, by actual enumeration, the population of the oity of Aber- deen proper was found to be 10,488 ; and if the sub- urbs and the Old Town be added, the whole may have amounted to 12,000 souls. The following is a statement of the progressive increase of the population of the city and suburbs since that period.
|
Population in the year |
||||
|
1770, |
1790, |
1801, |
1811, |
1821, |
|
14,400 1,200 1,500 |
16,386 5,000 1,713 |
17,597 4,400 1,715 |
21,629 6,500 1,911 |
26,484 9,993 2,063 |
|
17,100 |
21,099 |
23,712 |
30.340 |
38,54 0 |
In the three last of these statements, the sailors belong- ing to the town are not included. Including these, the population in the year 1821 may be estimated at 40,500 souls. At the same period, there were, in the city of Aberdeen proper, 2113 houses, occupied by 6188 fami- lies ; in the suburbs, 862 houses, occupied by 2587 fa- milies ; and in Old Aberdeen, 322 houses, occupied by 594 families : making a total of 3297 houses, occupied by 9369 families. Of the families, 330 were employed chiefly in agriculture, and 6952 in trade, manufactures, and handicraft occupations.
Aberdeen is locally situated in two parishes, St Ni- cholas and St Machar. The former comprehends the city of Aberdeen proper, and in the latter the suburbs and the Old Town are situated. St Nicholas is of a very limited extent ; but St Machar embraces a large district of country to the north and west of the town, the popu- lation of which however is not included in the above statement. In the parish of St Nicholas there are eight churches and chapels connected with the national esta- blishment, the cure of which is served by ten clergymen. The value of their stipends may be estimated as follows,
viz. one of L.290, one of L.240, two of L.230, four of L.200, one of L.180, and one of L.160 per annum.
The religious establishment in the parish of St Ma- char consists of one church and one chapel of ease, the cure of which is served by three ministers, whose stipends may be estimated at L.340, L.300, and L.200 per an- num. These places of worship are capable of seating 12,000 persons; but this accommodation is far from being adequate to the population belonging to the established church. Dissenters of almost every description are to be found in Aberdeen ; but some of their places of wor- ship are extremely small. The Dissenting Meeting- houses are as follows, viz. one Roman Catholic, two Scotch and one English Episcopal ; five Secession, three Congregational, one Relief, one Methodist, one Baptist, one Quaker, one Glassite, one Berean, and one non-des- cript. Besides these, there is a Seaman's chapel, where divine service is performed by the ministers of several religious denominations alternately. In ancient times there were many religious institutions in Aberdeen at- tached to the Romish hierarchy. The Old Town was the see of a Bishop, whose seat was transferred thither from Mortlach in the year 1136. Some of the Bishops were distinguished men, of whom Bishop Elphinston, the founder of King's College and University, in the Popish church, and Bishops Forbes and Scougal, in the days of Protestant Episcopacy, stand pre-eminent. There were, in all, 27 Popish and nine Protestant prelates. Previous to the Reformation there were also in Aberdeen monas- teries of the Trinity, Dominican, Carmelite, and Fran- ciscan friars, and a convent of the nuns of St Katha- rine, besides several hospitals ; there were likewise two
10
collegiate churches, one in the city, and one in King's , College.
Aberdeen enjoys a great advantage above most of the provincial towns of Scotland by means of herhterary in- stitutions. The most important of these are the Univer- sities of King's and Marischal Colleges. King's College, which is situated in the Old Town, is the most ancient of the two. It was founded by Bishop Elphinston in the year 1494, in virtue of a bull from Pope Alexander VI. which was confirmed by King James IV. in 1497. The establishment consists, at present, of a Principal, Sub- Principal, and Professors of Divinity, Civil Law, Medi- cine, Oriental Languages, Humanity, Greek, Mathema- tics, Natural Philosophy, and Moral Philosophy : Lec- tures are also delivered on Chemistry and Natural His- tory. A Chaplaincy has also been recently instituted, with the sanction of the General Assembly of the National Church. Marischal College was founded in the year 1593, by George Earl Marischal, and obtained almost immediately the sanction of the King and the Church. It is endowed for a Principal and Professors of Divinity, Oriental Languages, Greek, Mathematics, Natural and Civil History, Natural Philosophy, Moral Philosophy, and Logic, Medicine, and Chemistry. Latin is also taught ; and Lectures are delivered on Law, and on se- veral branches of Medical Science which are not strictly connected with the duties of the Professor of Medicine. Each of the colleges is governed by a Chancellor and Hector, the former chosen by the professors, and the latter by the students. The number of students attend- ing both is upwards of 600. In each of the colleges there is an extensive library, containing many valuable
11
books, and some rare manuscripts. The Museum of Natural History is by no means extensive ; but in Ma- rischal College there is an uncommonly fine apparatus connected with the Natural Philosophy department. For the support of students whose circumstances are moderate, there are many bursaries, some of them of considerable value. There is a grammar school, both in the Old and New Town ; the latter is endowed for a rector and three masters ; and both are attended by about 300 boys. Besides these, there are other semin- aries devoted to the instruction of youth in almost every branch of useful, scientific, or elegant education. Sever- al of these have permanent endowments, whilst others depend for subsistence merely on the taste of the public for the several departments of knowledge which they embrace.
There are many charitable or benevolent institutions in the city. The most prominent of these are the Poor's Hospital, the Infirmary, the Lunatic Asylum, Gordon's Hospital for the maintenance and education of the sons of decayed burgesses and tradesmen ; the Bishop's Hos- pital, from the funds of which eighteen old men are sup- ported ; and Mitchell's Hospital, for maintaining five wi- dows, and five unmarried daughters, of burgesses of Old Aberdeen. There are also several foundations for char- ity schools ; and, besides, there are numerous voluntary associations for charitable purposes, both of a secular and religious nature.
The city of Aberdeen has long been a place of considerable trade. Five or six centuries ago, the cur- ing and exporting of fish appears to have been a flourish- ing article of commerce ; Aberdeen fish were then ex- ported to several of the English towns, and also to the
B
12
continent. About the beginning of the last century, an active trade was carried on with the Low Countries, when woollen stockings were manufactured in great quantities for sale in Holland. This branch of commerce only ceased on the subjugation of the Netherlands by the French. In the year 1766, the Aberdeen Banking Com- pany was established, which was productive of the most material advantage to the commerce of the place ; be- sides this, there are now two other banking establish- ments in the city, and two branches of banks from the metropolis. There are, at present, extensive woollen, linen, and cotton manufactories in the town and neigh- bourhood, which give employment to several thousand persons ; there are also establishments for the manufac- ture of tape, sail-cloth, carpets, paper, and pins ; several large breweries for ale and porter ; a nail manufactory, coach-works, brick-works, and founderies. The trade of ship-building is also carried on to a considerable ex- tent ; and the number of vessels belonging to the har- bour has of late greatly increased. In the year 1814 there were connected with the town, exclusive of the ad- joining creeks, 160 ships, making 23,400 tons register, and employing 1,280 men ; at present there are about 240^ships, making 37,000 tons, and employing 2000 men. Of these, 14 vessels are engaged in the whale-fish- ery, with about 50 men to each. The trade in fish, for which the town was celebrated in ancient times, is still carried on. Findon-haddocks, so called from a village in the neighbourhood where they are cured, are regularly exported to Edinburgh and Glasgow, and many other places, where they are esteemed a great delicacy. Sal- mon are also caught in great abundance in the rivers
IS
Dee and Don, and form an article of very considerable demand in the London market. Another lucrative branch of commerce is the exporting of stones from the granite quarries which abound in the vicinity ; the streets of the metropolis are paved with this durable substance ; and one of the finest bridges over the Thames has been constructed of the same material.
Several of the public buildings in Aberdeen are wor- thy of notice. Of the churches, the most venerable is the parish church of St Machar, which was formerly the cathedral. All that now remains is the nave, surmount- ed with two spires at the west end. The roof, which is of oak, finely blazoned with coats of arms and inscriptions, is justly admired. The central tower, which stood at the east end of the present building, fell about the close of the 17th century, and buried the transept and the choir in its ruins. The two parish churches of St Nicholas are adjoining to each other, being separated only by a cross aisle, over which is a tower and pyramidal spire 140 feet in height. The East church is a plain Norman building, divided, like the church of St Machar, by two rows of pillars surmounted with pointed arches. The West church was founded about 70 years ago on the site of a fine old Gothic structure which had gone to ruin a short time before. It is a handsome structure in the modern Roman style, divided by two rows of piers, over which are semicircular arches. Here the magistrates have a gallery, and the seat of the chief magistrate is adorned with an elegant mahogany canopy. The wall behind is enriched with several scripture pieces on tapes- try, executed by a native of the city. None of the other churches or chapels on the establishment are remarkable.
14
The Dissenting meeting-houses are all plain structures, with the exception of the Scotch Episcopal Chapel, late- ly erected, the front and interior of which are in imita- tion of the Gothic. — Of the other public buildings, King's College is one of the most interesting ; it is in the form of a square ; the steeple is vaulted with a double cross arch, above which is a beautiful imperial crown, support- ed by eight pillars, and closed with a globe and double cross. A small spire rises from the centre of the chapel ; and at another corner of the court is a large square tower, built by contributions from General Monk and his officers when quartered in the city. In the chapel is the tomb of Bishop Elphinston, the founder of the col- lege. Remains of ancient carved work adorn the Avails. The south side of the quadrangle is a plain range of building, erected over an arcade. Marischal College is a very plain unadorned structure, consisting of a centre and two wings. One of these is surmounted by a tower, containing the College observatory, in which are several valuable astronomical instruments. In the halls of both colleges are numerous paintings, chiefly portraits of dis- tinguished characters. The Town- house is a large and substantial building ; over the old prison adjoining is an elegant spire 120 feet high ; the court room at the back is very elegant, and the Town-hall is a lofty spacious a- partment. Immediately opposite is the Cross, a hexa- gonal building, from the centre of which springs a fine Corinthian column, surmounted with an unicorn. Over the cornice are carved in relief the heads of ten of the Stuarts, with the royal arms of Scotland, and those of the city of Aberdeen. Gordon's Hospital is a handsome edifice, with a small spire in the centre, and a statue of
15
the founder over the entrance. The front of the Medi- cal Society's Hall is in the purest Grecian style, ornament- ed with a portico of the Ionic order. A similar, though larger portico, gives a fine appearance to the New As- sembly rooms. The Bridewell is very spacious, and is built in the castellated fashion. The only other build- ings calculated to attract notice are the bridges already mentioned, the Barracks, Trades'1 Hall, and Lunatic Asylum.
Abekdeen is one of the most ancient royal boroughs in Scotland. Before civic corporations were known in this country, King Gregory bestowed several special marks of royal favour on the inhabitants. The most ancient charter extant is from King William the Lion, in which he grants to his burgesses of Aberdeen the free enjoyment of their merchandise, after the manner in which their ancestors had exercised in the time of Mal- colm his grandfather. He gave two other charters, by which the burgesses were exempted from paying tolls and customs in any market or fair within the kingdom ; and at the same time established a mint, and erected a palace, in the Town. The constitution of the burgh was originally vested in an alderman and four bailies, with a common-council, elected with the consent and assent of the community assembled in the Guild Court. In the middle of the 15th century, an act of Parliament was passed ordaining the old council annually to choose the new. The spirit of this enactment has obtained ever since, although it has frequently excited opposition and complaint. At present, the magistrates and council consist of nineteen persons, fifteen of whom must vacate their seats at the end of the year. The office-bearers are
16
composed of a Provost, four Bailies, a Dean of Guild, a Treasurer, ten merchant councillors, and two trades- councillors. The Provost is high-sheriff and coroner, and the Bailies his deputy-sheriffs and coroners within the city and liberties. The Dean of Guild, besides hav- ing the power of marking and stamping all weights and measures, is custodier of the standard weights and mea- sures, not only within the city but also of the whole county of Aberdeen. In the burgh there are seven in- corporated trades, viz. Hammermen, Bakers, Wrights, and Coopers, Tailors, Shoemakers, Weavers, and Flesh- ers. A deacon, chosen annually, presides over each, and a deacon-convener over the whole.
The paving, cleaning, and lighting of the streets of the city, and the supplying of the town with water, is under the superintendance of commissioners of police, chosen annually by the inhabitants agreeably to an act of Parliament. The expence is defrayed by assessment on the house-rents within the burgh. A regular night- watch has lately been added to the establishment. The whole has been productive of the greatest advantage to the public.
Our limits will not admit of much historical detail re- specting the events which have distinguished the city at different periods. In addition to what has been stated, it may be observed, that Aberdeen was frequently a royal residence, not only in the time of William the Lion but also in that of the Alexanders. In the years 1244 and 1264, the town was destroyed by accidental fire. In 1292 the castle was delivered up to Baliol, and gar- risoned by English troops, who afterwards plundered and burnt the town on. the approach of Sir William Wallace.
17
The citizens of Aberdeen were amongst the first that joined the standard of King- Robert Bruce. They de- feated a body of English near Inverness, and soon after took the castle by storm, and put the garrison to the sword. In the year 1336, the town was again pillaged by the English, and, being set on fire, burned for six days, till the whole was reduced to ashes. King David, on his return from France, assisted the citizens to rebuild these houses, and held his first Parliament in the town in the year 1343. Robert II. the first of the Stuarts, occasionally made Aberdeen his residence. In the be- ginning of the fifteenth century, the citizens marched out in battle array to oppose the Highland army under Donald the Lord of the Isles, when most of the principal burgesses, with the provost, were slain. During this century bloody conflicts often took place on the streets, and the citizens were frequently at war with the turbu- lent clans in the neighbourhood. At the period of the Reformation, in the year 1560, the monasteries of the city were destroyed ; and the interior furnishing of the choir of the cathedral, with the lead on its roof, as well as the altars in the church of St Nicholas, were removed. Du- ring the troubles in the reign of Charles I. the inhabi- tants at first manifested a disposition to oppose the cove- nant, which was then subscribed by almost all the nobi- lity, clergy, magistrates, and people of Scotland ; but the majority afterwards acceeded to this celebrated bond. Amidst the many conflicts which followed at this period the town suffered severely. The inhabitants were repeated- ly pillaged, the funds of the corporation were exhausted, and the ravages of the plague completed the work of de- vastation by carrying off 2000 persons. At the Revolu-
18
tion, several of the clergy of the city refused to conform ; and, being ejected from their livings, became Episcopa- lian dissenters. During the rebellions of 1715 and 1745, the great majority of the citizens, being Presbyterians, were faithful to the established government. The town was occupied by the rebels at both these periods, but no very daring acts of outrage were committed. On both occasions, however, the regular election of magistrates was prevented. The history of the city since that time is chiefly a detail of its progressive improvement. The magnificent plans for altering and ornamenting the town were unfortunately, a few years ago, the means of em- barrassing the funds of the corporation ; and, in the year 1817, owing to an irregularity in the annual elec- tion of the magistrates and council, the sett of the burgh was forfeited. The old council, however, were author- ized soon after, by a warrant from the Government, to elect a new ; and, during the few years that have elapsed since that period, the prosperity of the corporation has revived, and the funds of the city are once more in a flourishing condition.
Printed by John Moir, Edinburgh, 1825.
ANNAN.
Annan is a Royal Burgh, in the parish of that name, and capital of the district of Annandale. It is 79 miles from Edinburgh, 89 from Glasgow, 16 from Dumfries, 43 from Kirkcudbright, and 9 miles west of Gretna Green. The Town is situated near the discharge of the river Annan into the Solway Firth. It is one of the most Ancient Towns in Scotland, having received its Charter from Robert de Bruce, who was Lord of Annandale before the accession of that House to the Scottish Throne.
The houses are neat and well built, and the Town has been greatly improved of late by new streets opened in the east and north parts : and a number of good new houses built. At the east end of the Town is a fine new Church with a Tower and Spire, and at the west end are the Town House and Markets, with a Spire and Clock. The Acade- my is an elegant building, -with apartments for the Rector, and School Rooms, where Latin, Greek, and the French languages are taught, as also Mathematics, Writing, and Arithmetic. It is governed by the Magistrates and a com" C
20
mittee of the Heritors. There is a well conducted Sub- scription Library, and several benevolent Societies.
Formerly Annan carried on a considerable trade in wine and the exportation of corn, — at present the principal trade is in cured bacon, hams, and the exportation of corn to the amount of 20 to 30,000 bushels annually. A manufactory for spinning cotton has been established by a Manchester Company, which has greatly added to the prosperity and population of the Town.
The old bridge across the river Annan has been taken down, and a new one is now erecting on its site, towards the expence of which a grant of £3000 has been obtained from Government, and the remainder of the expence, sup- posed to amount to £4000. additional, will be defrayed by the County.
The mouth of the river forms a good harbour, having water for vessels of 250 tons to within half a mile of the Town, where a commodious quay has been erected.
Annan is governed by a provost, two bailies, fifteen councillors, a treasurer, dean of guild, and town-clerk. It possesses extensive burgh roods and commonties, the latter of which have been divided, and are in a state of high im- provement. The revenue of the Town, arising from Fishe- ries, Tolls, Feu-duties, &c. is about £600 per annum. It joins with Dumfries, Lochmaben, Sanquhar, and Kirkcud- bright, in sending a member to Parliament.
Annan was a Roman station, and the veromum of the geography of Ravenna. It seems to have been held by the Britons after the departure of the Romans, till they were subdued by the Saxons of the Northumbrian Kingdom,
21
when it came to the Scotch. It afterwards became a prin- cipal port, and was granted with the territory of Annandale and Lochmaben to the ancestors of Robert Bruce, by some of whom a castle was built. This castle was in later times occupied as a church, but having become a ruin it was de- serted, and the original wall now forms part of the jail of Annan.
By the accession of the Bruce family to the throne it became a Royal Burgh. Upon the death of David the the Second in 1371, this castle, Lochmaben, and the Lordship of Annandale came to Randolph Earl of Murray, who was regent during the minority of David, and, with his sister Agnes, it went to the Dunbars Earls of March. Af- ter their forfeiture it went to the Douglasses. The Dou- glasses also lost it by joining with the Duke of Albany, brother of James the Third, who had revolted against the King, and plundered the Fair of Lochmaben with 500 horsemen on St. Magdalen's day, 22d July 1483, where they were defeated, when Douglas was taken prisoner, and Albany fled to England. After this period it remained in the hands of the King, and became the great key of the Western Border. It now belongs to the Earl of Hopetoun, and is a Marquisate in the family of Johnstone.
The parish of Annan is about eight miles in length, and from one to three miles in breadth. The surface is mostly level, and the soil in general a rich clay. Potatoes are much cultivated here, which are of an excellent quality, and in great request for seed. The river Annan intersects the parish, whose banks are ornamented with belts of planting, as are also most of the elevated grounds. There is a valu-
22
able salmon fishing on the river. Coal is found in conside- rable quantity ; limestone, granite, and free-stone are abun- dant.
The district of Annandale was a part of the Roman pro- vince of Valentia, and abounds with Roman Stations and Antiquities. Part of the Wall of Severus, the camp at Birrens, with that at Brunswark, and the remains of a mili- tary road, can be easily and distinctly traced. The ruins of the castle of Auchincass, once the seat of Randolph Earl of Murray, the Regent, covers above an acre of ground, and yet conveys an idea of the strength and extent of the build- ing. The ancient castles of Hoddum and Comlongan, are in a tolerable state of preservation ; but, with the exception of these two, most of the other old fortalices and towers, erect- ed on this part of the Border, are now taken down or in complete ruin.
The market day of Annan is Friday, at which large quan- tities of pork are sold. There are annual fairs held on the first Thursday in February — on the first Thursday in May — the third Thursday in August — first Tuesday after the 29th of September — on the third Thursday in October, and on the first Tuesday after the 11th day of November. Population, town and parish, 1811, 3341. Do. do. 1821, 4486.
ARBROATH.
Aberbrothock, commonly called Arbroath, is a Royal Burgh in the county of Angus or Forfar, it is distant 17 miles from Dundee, 12 from Montrose, and 14 from Forfar the county town. Its name is descriptive of its situation, where the Brothock, a small stream, said to signify " the muddy water," discharges itself into the ocean.
The town, which is now a thriving seat both of com- merce and manufactures, was celebrated at a former period for its stately and richly endowed Abbey, founded about the year 1178 by King William the Lion, and dedicated to Thomas a Becket of Canterbury, who was then esteemed a saint and martyr.
The ground occupied by the Abbey and its adjoining garden was enclosed with a strong wall ; the length from north to south being 1150 feet, the breadth on the north side of the area 706, and on the south 484. The height of this wall was from 20 to 24 feet, with battlements at inter- vals. The tower at the north-west corner, which formed the regality prison, is still entire, being about 24 feet
24
square, and 70 feet high. The tower at the south-west corner of the garden, has, with the addition of a few layers of plain mason-work, and a paltry spire covered with slates, been converted into a steeple for the present parish church. The remains of the Abbot's house, converted into a private mansion, are still standing, and in good repair. The ruins of the Abbey Church occupy a considerable portion of the north side of the area. They exhibit a specimen of the early pointed style, with small lancet shaped windows. The great western entrance was of the- Saracenic order, with a circular window above. A similar window, though smaller^ appears in the north transept.
The south wall of the church is all that remains entire j the north wall has altogether disappeared. Part of the east end of the church, where the high altar stood, has been preserved ; and the two towers at the west end present a mutilated aspect, the highest battlement or pinnacle re- maining being about 100 feet from the ground. The pil- lars that supported the roof are gone, and only their foun- dations can be traced. Four of these appear to have been- much larger than the rest, and probably sustained the weight of a central tower.
The length of the church inside from east to west was 270 feet/the breadth of the middle aisle 35, and of each of the side aisles 16,], making the breadth of the whole church 68 feet. The length from the west end to the transept was 148 feet, the breadth of the transept 45^ feet, and length from north to south 132 feet. The length from the transept to the east end of the church was 764 feet, and the height of the walls, judging from marks of the roof on the ruins, appears?
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to have been about 67 feet. Adjoining to the church, to- wards the east end, stands the Charter house, in a state pretty entire, consisting of two vaulted apartments, the one over the other. The foundations of the cloisters may still be traced in the convent church-yard.
Little is known respecting the early state of the town of Arbroath, as the records of the burgh were lost about the beginning of the last century. It is only, however, since the year 1760 that it began materially to increase in extent and population. About this period the town consisted only of the High Street, Market gate, Old Shore-head, Apple- gate, and Lordburn. There were no houses on the Abbey grounds, where fore and back Abbey Streets are now situated. There were no suburbs in the parish of St. Vigeans, nor were the streets within the royalty west of the Brothock then built.
The first indication of any trade or commerce being car- ried on at Arbroath subsequent to the charter granted by King John of England in 1304*, may be dated from the year 1304, when an agreement was made between John Geddy, abbot at the time, and the Burgesses of the Town, binding himself and his successors in office to bear the greater share of the expense of building and maintaining a harbour, which vessels might enter, and where they might lay in safety, in consideration of a certain yearly duty to be paid by the townsmen out of every rood of land within the burgh. In 1725 the old harbour, which was situated at the foot of the High Street, was abandoned, and a new one constructed on the west side of the Brothock. Though small for the present state of the trade connected with it,
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it is well executed, in the form of an oblong basin. The whole is artificial, and cased with stone work, having an outlet to the sea 31 feet in width. This entrance can be shut at any time against the violence of the waves, by means of wooden beams fitted to a groove, into which they are let down at pleasure. The number of vessels belonging to the harbour in the year 1780 did not exceed 18, mea- suring about 900 tons. In the year 1792 they amounted to 23 vessels, 1704 tons, at present (1827) the number of vessels is 67, registering 5628 tons. The principal foreign trade is to the Baltic, from which Flax is imported. This is spun into yarn at several mills in the town and neigh- bourhood, whose machinery is driven by steam. Three of these are extensive works, and give employment to many hands. The original manufacture carried on in the town was that of Osnaburgh linens, established before the middle of last century. This has since given place to the manu- facture of dowlas, sheetings, shirtings, and sail cloth.
Besides the parish church there are two chapels of ease belonging to the Establishment, and dissenting meeting houses in connexion with the Secession, Episcopalians, Methodists, Glassites, Congregational Independents, and Bereans.
The literary establishments of the town consist of an Academy, having a rector, and three other teachers. The branches taught are the Latin, French, and English lan- guages, with mathematics, arithmetic, and writing. There are also many private schools, in which the common branches of education are taught.
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Arbroath cannot boast of any rich charitable endows ments. The most considerable is a mortification for the benefit of the widows of Shipmasters. There are two or three smaller ones for the benefit of poor householders, and for the education of a few poor children.
Arbroath is generally said to have been erected into a royal burgh by King William the Lion, the founder of the Abbey. There can be little doubt that this monarch be- stowed peculiar privileges on the town ; although it may be fairly questioned whether royal burghs, in the sense in which the term is now understood, had any existence at so remote a period. Before the reformation, the town, as a burgh, appears to have been dependent in a great measure on the Abbot : the burgesses being under the government of two bailies, one of whom was chosen by the Abbot, and the other by themselves. The revenue of the burgh is about £2000 per annum, of which £900 arises from shore dues. The present charter is a nova dona from James the Sixth in the year 1599, in which, as a reason for the grant, it is stated that their old evidences of royalty had been ab- stracted by the Bishop of Murray. The town council can- not exceed 19 in number, amongst whom there are a Pro- vost, two Bailies, a dean of Guild, and deacon convenor. The power of the Magistrates is much the same as in other royal burghs in Scotland. There are seven incorporated trades, viz. Smiths, Glovers, Tailors, Weavers, Shoemakers, Wrights, and Bakers.
The only public buildings in the town worthy of notice are the Town-house, which is handsome, the Trades-haU D
28
and the Academy. The parish Church, in the steeple of which is a peal of three bells, has by no means an attractive exterior, though the inside, with a double tier of galleries, has somewhat of a venerable appearance. The two Chapels of ease are neat, though plain, structures ; and there is a simplicity in that which has been erected in .the suburbs which pleases the eye. The Signal Tower for communicat- ing with the Bell-rock Light house, is worthy of the atten- tion of the stranger. It is both substantial and elegant in its aspect, and possesses every 'Convenience that can be de- sired in such an edifice.
The general appearance of Arbroath is not such as to en • title it to be considered a handsome looking town. Market- gate, and the lower part of the High Street, are, at the same time spacious, and the latter, besides the Town -house and the Trades hall, which have ornamented fronts, contains many excellent houses. Most of the secondary streets, especially fn the suburbs, are rather mean looking than otherwise, owing principally, not to a deficiency in width but to the circumstance of the majority of the tenements being only one storey in height. Elegant houses, however, are occa- sionally to be met with in every quarter of the town. Most of the buildings are of a reddish coloured sandstone which is found in the immediate vicinity. The ruins of the Abbey form a picturesque object from whatever quarter they are viewed. Arbroath has a south east exposure, and the winds in that direction are often severely felt during the winter months. The surrounding country, however, is plea- sant, and well cultivated ; and the view of the estuary of
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the Tay, and the coasts of Fife and East Lothian, which is enjoyed from the beach and every surrounding eminence, renders the situation agreeable.
Population in 1811, 5380, Town and Parish. 1821, 8970.
AYR.
Ayr is a Royal Burgh of great antiquity, and the County Town of Ayrshire, — the Circuit Court is held here, and it is also a Presbytery seat. The town is situated on a point of land between the rivers Ayr and Doon, near the junction of these rivers with the Firth of Clyde. Ayr is 77 miles west by south of Edinburgh, 12 south-west of Kilmarnock, 12 south of Irvine, and 34 miles south-west of Glasgow.
The old part of the town forms something like a crescent, and the houses in this quarter, including the principal street, are irregularly built in the ancient style, with their gables and corners projecting into the street, — the main street is broad and spacious with a row of houses on each side, and contains some handsome buildings.
The other streets, like those in all old towns, are narrow ; but the inconvenience of their being ill paved and dirty, which has sometimes been complained of, is in a great mea- sure obviated by new pavings and other improvements, and they are now lighted with Gas. The obstruction of the Tolbooth and buildings connected with it in the High Street,
31
lias been removed, (1827) and a spacious Strjet opened from the New Bridge to Wellington Square. The old Spire is intended to be replaced by a handsome structure in a different situation. New Streets, too, are laid out, and new buildings are rising in all directions : many of these houses possess a very considerable degree of elegance. The New Square called Wellington Square rivals many in the me- tropolis for elegance — the west side of this Square is occu- pied by a noble building for a new County Hall, Court rooms, &c. erected at the joint expence of the Burgh and County, and cost £27,000. The front of this edifice is orna- mented with a handsome Portico, and within the square is a neat plot of ground laid out with gravel walks, inclosed by a cast iron rail. Behind the Town Hall are two Prisons* one for Debtors, and one for Criminals, commodiously ar- ranged for health and comfort.
Ayr was erected into a Royal Burgh by William the Lyon, about the year 1202, and the privileges granted by that Charter are still enjoyed by the Burgh in the original form and extent. The name of the Town originates from that of the river. Ahre, the Celtic name signifying Shallow, which is descriptive of the river at this place ; in opposition to the Dohn or Doon, which is a deep and copious stream, falling into the Clyde on the south, at the distance of about a mile from the town.
In ancient times it appears that the trade of Ayr was very considerable, the merchants then carried on an exten- sive commerce with France, by exporting Salmon, as well as corn, and other productions of the country, — importing in return the wines and brandy of France ; but from the ri-
32
valship of Glasgow, the foreign export trade of Ayr has much declined. The principal trade of this port is now the exportation of coal, of which article upwards of 60,000 tons are annually shipped to Ireland alone. The exportation of pig- iron, coal tar, &c. the produce of the iron works in the County, is also considerable, — the whetstone, called Water of Ayr Stone, deservesmentionalso, as an article of export. Besides the Salmon Fishings on the Rivers Ayr andDoon, there is an extensive White Fishery carried on here on the sand banks on the coast. Both these fisheries are valuable, and there are two companies with large establishments for the curing and exportation of their produce. In both the Ayr and Boon, the Salmon are plentiful ; and the fishings in these rivers produce a rental of upwards of £500. per annum.
There are between sixty and seventy vessels belonging to the Port of Ayr, and their Importations consist of Hides, Tallow, &c. from South America, — Provisions, grain, &c. from Ireland, — Timber from America, and Hemp and Iron from the Baltic.
The manufacture of Leather is carried on to a large ex- tent, and Soap making is on a large scale, — these are the two principal manufactures; but there are others, as, Can- dles, Ropes, Shoes, Hats, &c.
The Academy, founded by subscription in 1798, is a most valuable institution. It is conducted by a Rector and five Masters and Assistants, — this Seminary was created a Body Corporate by the Crown, under certain directors, so it is properly a Royal Academy. Here are taught the English, Latin, Greek, Anglo-Saxon, French, Italian, Ger- man, and Oriental Languages, — writing, arithmetic, draw-
ing, mathematics, navigation, geography, logic, rhetoric, botany, chemistry and natural philosophy. This Academy has acquired a high degree of celebrity from the abilities of its teachers, and the excellent system of Education which they have followed. The number of Pupils attending this seminary, average 500.
The old Church was built in the year 1654-, and is still in good repair. In 1808 a new Church was built fit to contain about 1200 persons. Besides the Churches of the Establishment, there are two places of worship belonging to the Secession church, one to the Relief, one Moravian, one Methodist, and an Independent chapel. The Secession churches are properly in the adjoining parish of St. Quivox, as is also an elegant Roman Catholic chapel, newly finished. The Independent chapel is adjoining the parish of Newton, where there is also an Established church.
The ancient church of Saint John the Baptist, is noted for being the place where the Scottish Parliament met in the year 1315, when they unanimously confirmed the title of Robert Bruce to the throne of Scotland, and settled the order of succession among the members of the family. This church was converted into a place of arms, and surrounded by fortifications during the protectorate of Oliver Crom- well, the ruins of which remain, and the tower or steeple of St. John's church still remains entire.
There is a subscription Library upon an enlarged plan, containing many thousand volumes, in all the various de- partments of Literature and the Arts.
Ayr possesses a number of charitable endowments, the chief of which is the Charity House, or Towns' Hospital, —
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this house was built by subscription in 1756, and is capable of containing sixty paupers, though there is seldom so many. This establishment is chiefly supported by its own funds, arising from lands and donations, or from what is called in Scotland, mortifications. The Dispensary, supported by subscriptions, gives medicine and aid to the sick poor. The Sailors Society instituted in 1581, support their own dis- tressed members. The Merchant Society was formed in 1655, with a fund for the support of decayed members, their widows and orphans. The Ayr Universal Society, and many other charitable and benevolent institutions, on a smaller scale, are ably conducted.
It was in the town of Ayr that the heroic Sir William Wallace, the protector of Scotland, first commenced his op- position to the English under Edward the first, and here that monarch established one of his most powerful garri- sons. It is noted also, as being the birth place of Johan- nes Scotus, surnamed Erigena, who flourished in the ninth century ; celebrated throughout Europe for his learning, ready wit, and powerful elocution, exerted in the metaphy- sical disputations of his time. This town also gave birth to the Chevalier Ramsay, author of the travels of Cyrus, and other works. The more modern, but no less celebrated Robert Burns, the Scotch Poet, was born at Alloway in this neighbourhood, in a small cottage, now a public house, where the apartment in which he was born is shewn ; and near to this spot an elegant monument has been erected to his memory on the Banks of the Doon, amidst the scenery which gave inspiration to his muse. Alloway-kirk is on the
35
Banks of the Doon, and both the kirk and river are immor- talised in " Tam o' Shanter."
The harbour of Ayr is formed by the river Ayr at its influx into the estuary of the Firth of Clyde, on the north side of the town. The entrance was formerly much in- commoded by a bar of sand being frequently formed across its mouth, by a north west wind, and having only twelve feet of water at spring tides. These inconveniences are now removed, and the harbour greatly improved, by car- rying out an extensive stone pier into the sea, which gives an additional depth of water, for vessels entering the har- bour ; and superior accommodation whilst within it. The harbour of Ayr is now preferable to any of its size on this coast, and when other contemplated improvements are com- pleted, will greatly increase the mercantile importance of the town of Ayr.
The whole of Ayrshire abounds with inexhaustible Seams of Coal, Freestone, Limestone, Ironstone, and with several rich ores of Lead and Copper. None of these minerals, except Coal and Freestone, are in the immediate neigh- bourhood of the town ; but their proximity to Ayr, the principal seaport in the County, is an important advantage to the shipping interest of the town. Large quantities of grain are also shipped from the port of Ayr. From the low and level situation of the town on the shores of the Clyde the air is in general moist. This level tract of sandy soil, extends for more than a mile to the south and north of the town, affording to the Inhabitants the most commo- dious walks and rides, and extensive links or downs for the exercise of the favourite Scotch Game of Golf,
E
There are- many elegant seats: in the vicinity of the town of Ayr, on the romantic Banks of the Doom which present to the eye a succession: of the most beautiful and pictur- esque scenery. The distant views oir> the opposite side of the Firth are highly interesting. On a clear day is seen the island of Arran with its majestic cloud capped moun- tains, and" on the south the celebrated Ailsa Craig, is seen rising from the ocean to the height of 940 feet perpen- dicular.
The establishments for private tuition in the town are conducted on the most respectable plans*. — every branch of modern education, and all those accomplishments which embellish society, are here to be procured. The town of Ayr has long been a gay and fashionable place. Its an- nual Horse Races, patronised by the Nobility and Gentry of Ayrshire, and the neighbouring Counties ; under the lately adopted name of the Western Meeting, are accom- panied by the usual amusements, and are numerously at- tended. It is also, at times, one of the places appointed for the meeting of the Caledonian Hunt ; and it has a small but neat, Theatre, occasionally opened to gratify the lov- ers of the Drama.
The municipal government of the town consists of a Pro- vost, two Bailies, a dean of Guild, Treasurer, ten merchant and two Trades Councillors ; and along with Irvine, Rothe- say, Inverary, and Campbeltown, returns a member to Parliament.
The principal market day is Friday, and a cattle market is held every Tuesday.*
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The Ayr Bank is an aid and respectable establishment, and there is also a branch of the Bank of Scotland in the town. There is a considerable printing business carried an, and the Ayr Advertiser is a well conducted Newspaper.
The population iof the town appears to have been m ancient times much more considerable than at a later period. In the beginning of the sixteenth century, a plague, is said by tradition, ±o have carried off two thousand of ithe In- habitants.
The Population of the town and parish, as given by Dr.
Webster in 1753 was 2965.
By the census of 1801 5492.
1811 6291,
1821 7455.
Newton-upon-AA'r, situated upon the north side of the river, opposite to Ayr, is an ancient Burgh of Barony ; and owes its erection and previleges to Robert Bruce, who es- tablished here a Lazar House called Kyle Case, for eight leprous persons, in consequence of himself having been af- fected with leprosy on his sleeping on the ground here after the fatigue of the chase.
The town consists of one principal street, and some cross lanes, containing many good and substantial houses. It is governed by a separate magistracy consisting of two Bailies, a treasurer, and six councillors, who are chosen by its own Freemen, forty-eight in number ; every freeman having a vote, — but without parliamentary representation. It com- municates with the town of Ayr by a handsome bridge, and is a seaport of great antiquity. The harbour belongs en- tirely to the town of Ayr.
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The principal employments of the Inhabitants, are wea- ving for the Glasgow Manufacturers, and Fishing. New- ton-upon Ayr is a small parish, about one and a half miles long, and one broad. The soil is mostly flat and sandy. The Population of the town and parish in 1801 was 1724-.
1811 2809.
1821 4027.
Wallace-town is a thriving village adjoining Newton-
upon-Ayr, the Inhabitants of which are also employed
chiefly in the weaving trade for Glasgow. Population of
this village about 1800.
* The annual fairs were at this date (10th October, 1827.) altered to the times after mentioned, in consequence of the old periods interfering with other fairs in the county, viz. New-years day fair on Thursday and Friday immediately before the second Wednesday of January, being Glasgow New-years-day Fair. — Palm Fair, on the first Tuesday in April.— Midsummer Fair, on Thursday and Friday, before the second Monday of July, being Glasgow Midsummer Fair,— and Michaelmas Fair, on the second Thursday and Friday in October, all new style ; and of these Fairs where two days are mentioned, Thursday is for business in woollen goods, &c. and Friday for horses, &c. The cattle as before on the last Friday of April.
BANFF.
— •**•••««•—
Banff is a roj^al burgh and sea port town, pleasantly sit- uated upon the western bank of the river Doveron, at its entrance into the Moray Frith, and lying upon the south- easterly declivity of a small hill, or rising ground, called the Gallowhill ; whose base is adjoining the mouth of the river, extending southwards along its banks, with a gentle ascent for upwards of a mile ; leaving as it recedes from the sea, some beautiful and extensive haughs, between it and the river, (formerly the property of the community.) On one of these haughs called the Daw-haugh, stands DufF-House, the princely residence of the Earl of Fife, surrounded with extensive gardens, policies, pleasure grounds, and thriving plantations ; said to be 14 miles in circumference. The ancient castle formerly a place of great strength, and occa- sionally a royal residence, is now converted into a modern mansion, the property of the Earl of Findlater. Part of the old wall remains, the moat, and entrenchments are still visible. A fine bridge of seven arches crosses the Doyeron.
40
Banff is situated in Latitude 57° 40' 58" and Longitude 2° 31'. It is 165 miles N. by E. of Edinburgh, 43 N. by W. of Aberdeen, 70 E. by N. of Inverness, and 33 miles East of Elgin. It is a place of great antiquity, the county town of Banffshire, and the seat of the Courts of Law. Banff was spoken of as a royal burgh, in the reign of Malcolm Canmore, in 1 057, and was then endowed with an ample patrimony of lands, with the salmon fishings in the river and in the sea. To these grants were afterwards added the lands belonging to the Carmilites, which were nearly of equal extent and value. These grants were corroborated to the burgh, by Robert de Bruce, and subsequently con- firmed by Robert the Second, by charter dated 7th Octo- ber, J372, and endowing it with the same privileges as Aberdeen, and vesting its government in a provost, bailies and Council, like other royal burghs. Banff joins with El- gin, Cullen, Kintore and Inverary, in sending a member to Parliament.
There are six incorporated trades, viz. Hammermen, Shoemakers, Tailors, Coopers, Weavers, and Wrights, be- longing to the burgh, who hold their privileges from the magistrates by contract, dated 8th October, 1680, by which contract, after conferring different privileges on the incorporations and giving them two votes in the town- council, the deacon of each trade is taken, bound " to con- vene his incorporation, with such armour as they have, to defend the magistrates, &c. and not to convene in arms, without the order of the magistrates and council, else to forfeit their burgess-ship," &c.
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The town is of an irregular form, and although some of the streets and bye lanes are narrow, yet the principal streets are of tolerable width. Many of the houses, are good, and built with granite or freestone. The town-house was finished in 1798, it is 78 feet in front with a handsome spire and clock. This is a fine building, containing ele- gant assembly-rooms, rooms for the accommodation of the county gentlemen, Sheriff-Court and clerks office, town- chamberlain, and various other apartments for public busi- ness. It also contains an airy and secure debtors prison, and cells for felons, with two strong vaults underneath, which have been occasionally used as a prison, and in times of scarcity as a public kitchen.
The church is a fine new building, and there is a hand- some English chapel containing a fine toned small organ. There are also large and commodious meeting-houses be- longing to the secession church, independents, methodists, congregational union, and a Roman catholic chapel.
Public and private education are amply provided for in Banff. The academy has been long and justly celebrated as a seminary of learning. There are also several respect- able Boarding Schools, for young ladies, where the polite and fashionable branches of female education are taught with success, — many of the young ladies of Banff are not only acquainted with Spanish, Italian and French, but also with Latin, which they can read and translate (even the higher classics,) with ease and elegance. To the Academy there is attached a Charity School founded and endowed at the joint expence of the Heritors and Kirk Session, but there has been no separate teacher for some years. The
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late Alex. Pirie, Esq. Merchant, founded a Charity School, vesting it in trust in the Town Council and Kirk Session, and endowed it with a salary of £40. per annum for the teacher, and £20. more for books and stationary for the scholars ; besides funds for the erection of a schoolmaster's house and school-rooms. The six incorporated trades have also founded a school for the children of the members of their incorporations, which is supported by them by sub- scriptions, and the fees of teaching. The school has been numerously attended and satisfactorily conducted. There is, besides, a charity school for girls and deserted children, supported by private contributions.
The poor of the town are also amply provided for, ex- clusive of the ordinary weekly collections at the church doors. Alexander Cassie, Esq. a native of Banif, by will dated the 8th February 1S19, bequeathed the sum of £19,500 to the Magistrates and Council in trust, the inte- rest of which to be expended half-yearly towards the sup- port of poor aged and infirm persons of both sexes, incapa- ble of maintaining themselves by labour, born within the precincts of the burgh ; and helpless orphans and other de- serted children of both sexes, born as before, till they at- tain the age when they may be deemed capable of provid- ing for themselves.
Miss Wilson, also a native of Banff, who died in 1825, left a considerable heritage, and a large sum of money afford • ing together an yearly annuity of £10. Sterling, to each of six decayed tradesmen, and six women who have never been married, and who have resided 20 years in Banff, maintaining irreproachable characters.
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George Smith, late of the island of Grenada, (besides es- tablishing an academy at Fordyce, and endowing it with 16 Bursaries of £20» each,) by his will, dated 29th November 1789, bequeathed " One thousand pounds Sterling, or its equivalent in stock, to be deposited in the hands of the ma- gistracy of Banff, to be by them applied towards endowing an hospital, or infirmary, to be erected in any convenient place they shall be able to attain, either near Fordyce or Banff." This bequest has not yet been applied to its ori- ginal destination.
Another very large sum bequeathed by the late James Wilson, by his will, dated 16th December 1799, for the benefit of the poor of Banff, also under the charge of the magistrates ; but which it is said has not yet been drawn by them, being life rented by the sister of the testator.
The harbour of Banff is unsafe when strong northerly winds prevail, and is often choked up with sand banks which are constantly shifting in stormy weather. About the year 1817 or 1818, a new pier and bason was project- ed by the magistrates, which has turned out to be totally useless as a place of safety, after having expended upon it upwards of £22,000. — Last year (1826) several new ves- sels were wrecked in its bason while unloading, and the re- mainder of their cargoes either lost or destroyed.
The trade and shipping interest of the burgh, have long been in a declining state, and both would be annihilated, but for the triffling commodities necessary for the use of the inhabitants and near neighbourhood ; and a few cargoes of corn and herrings annually exported from this port. To F
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revive trade and commerce various attempts have been made within the last 20 years, but with little success. A- mong others, a company was formed under the firm of the London Shipping Company, who began to trade with four small vessels, but in a few years the Copartnery was dis- solved, with a considerable loss, over and above the Com- pany's stock.
The next attempt was a Whale Or Greenland Shipping Company. The business was begun with one vessel called the Triad, and next year the Company purchased another vessel called the Earl of Fife— but she having been unfor- tunately wrecked on leaving the harbour for Greenland, on her second voyage, with all her stores and fishing imple- ments on board, the Company was dissolved, and the Triad sold, on her return in the end of the year 1 820, with a great .OSS to the Company, reported to have been 15 or £16,000.
About the same time some spirited individuals started with two boats for the herring fishery, with much and en- couraging success; and in 1819, there were from 50 to 70 boats, fully manned and equipped, from the port of Banff alone, independent of those from the neighbouring stations within the district. But from that time to the present day, the fishing has yearly declined, and the curers from other places who had come here to reside, have gradually left the place to establish themselves in the neighbouring stations, where there are no magistrates, and many of the towns-peo- ple have followed their example, so that the number of boats now (1827,) from the port of Banff, are not more than 20 or 30, while the number from Macduff will be about 70,
45
and nearly an equal number from Whitehills, both these stations are about a mile from Banff.
Notwithstanding, attempts are still making to renovate the shipping interest, and last year a new Company was formed for the London trade, who began with three fine smacks all of which have made uncommonly quick pas- sages, and done their duty with much satisfaction to the public.
The neighbouring proprietors having now built safe and commodious harbours, with good warehouses and moderate shore and harbour dues ; it must require both time and per- severance to recover a trade long diverted into other chan- nels, where much encouragement and safety is given for its continuance.
The harbour was formerly defended by a small battery, which is now converted into a station for the coast guard, for the prevention of smuggling.
A stocking and thread manufactory was formerly carried on here to a considerable extent about 30 years ago, but the former was given up about the year 1804, and is now carried on to a very trifling extent, although Banff and its neighbourhood affords good accommodation, and many fa- cilities, for that branch of manufacture.
A cast iron foundery has lately been erected at Banff by a spirited and respectable inhabitant, with every prospect of success and public patronage. The castings of every description rival the best works of the kind we have any where met with, and it will prove a most valuable accom- modation to the country. This foundry is the first esta-
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blishment of the kind ever erected in the north, except a small one at Inverness, for common work, erected by the brother of this individual.
The curing offish, and the exportation of salmon are the principal lucrative branches of commerce. Some kelp is made about Troop-Head.
Besides the Quarter Sessions, a Justice-of-Peace Court is held on the first Monday of every month.
There are four annual fairs held at Banff, viz, on the 7th of January, on the first Tuesday in February, the third Tuesday in May, O. S. and the third Tuesday in Decem- ber, O. S. and a weekly market on the Fridays for meal, butcher meat, butter, cheese, eggs, fish, &c. There is also a meal market, but which is little frequented, the town being principally supplied by private dealers. The weights and measures now in use, conform to the new im^ perial standard, except the coal measure, the old barrel being still in use, as it is narrow, and measures more coal from the same cargo than a vessel whose diameter is dou- ble the width, as prescribed by the new Act.
Although the trade of Banff is limited in the mean time, yet the place affords some powerful facilities for an in- crease, there being no fewer than three branch banking establishments in the town, besides several money lenders.
The parish of Banff, which is six miles in length, by two in breath, is beautifully diversified by gentle rising grounds, the soil in general is rich loam, limestone is abundant, but the want of coal, renders it of no use to the agriculturist. The coast on the west is bold and rocky,
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but forms a fine sandy beach towards the river Boindie, from which river the name of the town and parish is sup- posed to be derived, as in some old charters it is spelled Baineffe, and BainefF. The famous Dr. Sharp, archbishop of St. Andrews, was a native of this parish.
Population of the town and parish in 1821, was 3853.
BERWICK ON TWEED.
Berwick is a Borough on the borders of England and Scotland, situated on the north, or Scottish side of the river Tweed. It is a town of very considerable importance, and is distant from Edinburgh, south-east, 53 miles, — 15 miles east of Dunse, — 22-i north-east from Kelso, — 63 miles north by west of Newcastle, and 340 north by west of London. Longitude 1°58' west, Latitude 55°45' north.
Berwick was originally a Scotch town, formerly the ca- pital of Merse, or March ; but became subject to England finally in the reign of Edward the Fourth. Though under the jurisdiction of the Supreme Courts in England in most matters, yet in others it has an exclusive jurisdiction and has some peculiar customs and privileges. A small district called Berwick Bounds, running about three miles north from the town on the sea shore, about the same distance up the Tweed, and a line drawn from these two extreme- ties on the north west, is the extent of these * Bounds,' attached to the town.
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Berwick is pleasantly situated on a gentle declivity at a short distance from the sea, where the Tweed joins it. It is surrounded with high walls, having the river for a moat on the south, and a ditch on every other quarter. Till very lately it was regularly fortified. Some of the gates, and one draw bridge are yet standing ; but the Castle, which was formerly of great strength, is now in ruins. The cannon that formerly stood on several of the walls, were, in consequence of a ridiculous panic in 1818, remov- ed to Leith Fort, by government. The barracks form a large regular square, and can accommodate two regiments of foot.
The town of Berwick is in general well built, — the an- cient part of the town is irregular, and the streets narrow ; but the more modern streets are wide, containing many neat and commodious houses, and are well paved, cleaned, and lighted. The Town house is a handsome structure with a lofty tower or spire, in which are eight bells and a fine clock, — this clock strikes the quarters of the hour and has four dials. The Church is a neat building, but has no steeple or bells ; the Inhabitants are summoned to divine worship by the bells of the Town house. The Rectory is in the Diocese of Durham, and belongs to the dean and chapter, — their Vicar serves the Church. There are two places of divine worship belonging to the Kirk of Scotland, one to the Church of England, two Secession Chapels, — one baptist meeting house, one relief, one methodist, and one Roman catholic chapel. There is an excellent charity school in Union Street, in which 40 boys are taught read- ing, English grammar, writing, and accompts. They are
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annually clothed, and when of age go out to apprentice- ships or services. The free schools are six in number, and are supported at the expence of the oorporation,-^they consist of three reading schools, one for the Latin and Greek languages, — a mathematical school, and a writing school ; to all or either of which, the children of freemen have gratuitous access.
The Town of Berwick has been the scene of many a bloody contest between the English and Scots, from the earliest period ; and as often has it changed masters. It is a place of very great antiquity, and always considered of the utmost importance. It was incorporated by David the First of Scotland. Its first English Charter was granted by Edward the First, and the Charter by which they now hold their liberties was granted by James the First. Ber- wick is mentioned in history as a place of great strength in the reign of Osbert, one of the last Kings of Northumber- land,— and is said to be the place where the Danes landed in one of their incursions under their leader Hubba, in the year 867. It continued for some time in the possession of the Saxons, and afterwards of the Danes, until it was ta- ken by assault in the year 904, by Gregory the Great, King of Scotland.
In the reign of William the First of Scotland, surnamed the Lion, Berwick was given up to the English, on the fol- lowing occasion : — William was taken prisoner by stratagem at Alnwick in the year 1174-, carried before Henry the Se- cond, who was then in France — kept prisoner at Falaise in Normandy, and was obliged to deliver fifteen hostages, along with the castles of Roxburgh, Berwick, Edinburgh,
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and Stirling ; and to do homage for the kingdom of Scot- land, as the price of his liberty. Richard, (says Buchanan) who succeeded his father Henry, in 1189, restored these castles, and sent back the hostages, " freeing William and his posterity from all covenants, either extorted by force, or obtained by fraud," and suffered him to enjoy the realm of Scotland by the same right, and within the same limits, as any of his predecessors had held it. William gave Rich- ard 10,000 merks in silver, to assist his preparations for an expedition to the Holy Land. During these contentions Berwick was repeatedly burnt down and rebuilt. It was here that Edward the First, on the 2d August 1291, held an Assembly of the States of England and Scotland, to determine the rival claims of the two competitors for the crown of Scotland, Baliol and Bruce ; when, after more than fifteen months conference, namely, on the 17th No- vember 1292, Edward, as it best suited his policy, favour- ed the claims of John Baliol. Berwick has been considered as belonging to England, since it was taken by Sir Thomas Stanley in the reign of Edward the Fourth.
The town of Berwick, as already mentioned, stands on the north, or Scotch side of the Tweed, and is joined to England by an ancient stone bridge of fifteen spacious arches, supposed to have been built in the reign of Queen Elizabeth. The length of the bridge is 947 feet, and only 17 feet wide, — over each of the piers there is an outlet on either side for the safety of foot passengers ; a precaution rendered necessary from the narrowness of the bridge. The sixth pier on the Berwick side is the boundary which sepa- rates Berwick from the County Palatine of Durham. This
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pier is distinguished by sods placed upon; it*, and; forms the legal division of Scotland from England;
A great part of the trade of Berwick is the exportation of salmon, taken hi the Tweed, for the London" market, — > ■some of which are sent up alive> or packed in ice, fresh; but the bulk of the export of this article is in the pickled State. The fishing Commences on the 10th of January arid ends on the 10th of October, during which; period great •quantities are taken, sometimes, to the! number of 200 to 300 at one haul. The fishings on the" Tweed, belonging to the town, comprehends a spacte of seven miles from the mouth of the river up to Norhattij* and. rent for upwards of £12,000 per annum. . . i i
Besides the salmon taken in the Tweed,; the merchants rent, or contract, for a great part of the Salmon fishings throughout Scotland. Vast quantities of white fish, lobsters, &c. are also contracted for here, and sent to London ; and a considerable quantity of herrings are cured in the neigh- bourhood. Large cargoes of eggs are collected from all parts of the country, and sent to London for the use of the sugar boilers. - - - - - -
The grain, chiefly grown in Berwickshire, shipped at this port, amounts to 80 Or 100,000 bolls per annum, exclusive of that sent inland to the markets of Dunbar, Haddington, and Dalkeith, which may amount to nearly the same quan- tity. Berwick is one of the principal ports in England for the exportation of corn;, meal, and flour.
Some wool is also exported, and the imports of wood from Norway, and articles from the Baltic, are considerable.
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The harbour is very good, and has lately been much im- proved by the erection' of a fine pier, extending 77iQ?ya wis into the sea,-^this pier is one of the most fashionable pro- menades of the inhabitants during the summer.
Berwick is governed by a mayor, recorder,: to w»telei!k, coroner, treasurer, four bailies, and six constables,, chosen annually; ranil returns two: members to Parliament; The chief magistrate is the mayor, who with the recorder and aldermen, (that is, those who have served the office of mayor,) are constituted by charter, justices of the peace, of oyer and terminer, and gaol delivery. By these, at the quarter sessions, and gaol deliveries, all offences committed within the borough are tried. All actions for land or debt to any amount, within the liberties of the town, may be tried in the Court of Pleas, held every fortnight ; the mayor, recorder, and four bailies, are the judges. The corporation, under their charter, enjoy large estates in land, the rental of a great part of which is annually divided among the bur- gesses.
The chain bridge of suspension over the Tweed in the neighbourhood was finished in 1820, and was the first of the kind in Europe. It is a singularly elegant production of science and art combined.
Although Berwick is reckoned neither in Scotland or England, yet the English judges hold assizes in it. The " Town of Berwick-upon-Tweed," is separately mentioned in all Proclamations and Acts of Parliament relating to the empire at large. It is destitute of all kinds of manufactures although favourably situated for several of them.
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A Banking Company, under the firm of the Tweed Bank, is established here, and also a private Bank. The market days are Wednesday and Saturday ; and fairs are held on the second Wednesday in May, for cattle and horses — on the first Wednesday before the 26th day of August, and on the first Wednesday in November.
Population by the census in 1821, was 8723 ; viz. 3964 males, and 4759 females,
BRECHIN.
Brechin is a royal burgh, in the parish of the same name, in Angus-shire, of which Forfar is the county town, and was anciently an episcopal see. It lies I3§ miles north east of Forfar, 8 west of Montrose, 25 south of Stone- haven, 26 \ north-east of Dundee, and 7H miles from Ed- inburgh.
It is situated on a rising ground, (whence its name) which is washed by the river south Esk. It consists of one street up the face of the acclevity, another nearly at right angles, and it has a third from the west adjoining, with some bye lanes. The royalty extends from the cross about half-a-mile in every direction, and the suburbs a considerable way farther. To the south and east are the Tenements, which are two streets of some length, indepen- dent of the burgh of Brechin, being without the royalty, and held in feu of Sir James Carnegie of South Esk.
Brechin is a well built town, and contains a number of good houses ; those lately erected are handsome. The town is well supplied with water, by means of leaden pipes.
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At the lower end of the south, or Nether Tenements, is a stone bridge of two large arches over the South Esk. The town had many years ago been walled round, as the names of South, West, and North Ports, still indicate. It was twice destroyed by fire, by the Danes in the year 1012, and again by the Marquis of Montrose, in 164-5.
A bishop's see was founded here by David the First in 114-0, richly endowed. That part of the cathedral which still remains, is an ancient Gothic pile, supported by twelve pillars, and having a door and window in the west end, of curious and beautiful workmanship. When entire it was 166 feet long, and 61 feet broad. At the north-west cor- ner is a square tower, with a handsome spire, together 120 feet high. The present parish church, occupies the west end of the cathedral, which was some time ago repaired at very considerable exper.ce, and makes an elegant place of worship.
Adjoining to the church on the south-west, is one of those round towers, of which this and another at Aberne- thy, are all that remain in Scotland. Antiquarians have long been divided in their opinions, concerning the time when these towers were erected, and their use. One con- jecture is, that they were watch towers, several suppose them to have been belfries, whence the criers summoned the people to prayers, while not a few, knowing that similar towers are to be found in Ireland, named the land of sanc- tity, think that they must have been places in which peni- tents were confined till restored to the bosom of the church. This tower contains four openings or windows at the top, directed to the four cardinal points, and commands a tol-
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erably extensive view. That at Abernethy overlooks the Firth of Tay, and part of the valley of Strathearn, and this at Brechin is directed towards the great valley of Strath - more. The conjecture that these were watch-towers, is but ill supported, the view from the tower of Brechin is very limited, extending only to Montrose on the east, and a short way into the valley of Strathmore, neither is the view from the tower at Abernethy very extensive.
The tower at Brechin is a circular column of great beau- ty and elegance, 80 feet high, with a kind of spire or roof 23 feet additional, of an octagonal form, making the whole height 103 feet, the diameter at the base is 1 6 feet. The building consists of 86 courses of stone, not regular in their depth, some of them measuring 24, some of them only 9 inches, and the stones somewhat deeper at one end than the other, so that the courses bear some resemblance to a screw. This fabric has sustained little injury from time. The door is about 6 feet from the ground, 22 inches wide, and 6tj feet high, the sides are formed of large blocks of the same sand stone, of which the rest of the tower is built. Nearly in the centre of each stands a human figure on a kind of bracket, supposed to be one of the apostles, having a rod or staff in his hand. The lintel is another block of sand stone cut into a semicircular arch, over the centre of which, stands the figure of our Saviour stretched on the Cross, whence has arisen the probable conjecture' that this tower was built after Christianity had been introduced into Scotland. The sole is another block of the same kind of stone, on each end of which are the figures of two animals, conjectured to be a lion and a lamb, the whole entrance is
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ornamented with two borders of small circles, which sur- round the figures described.
In a lane at the upper part of the town, are some re- mains of the chapel of Maison Dieu, an hospital founded by William de Brechin, and confirmed by James the Third in 1477, part of the revenues of which are still applied by the magistrates^ its patrons, towards the support of the poor, and part to pay the salary of the master of the gram- mer school, called Preceptor of Maison Dieu.
Near to the town stands Brechin Castle, the ancient seat of the family of Panmure, and residence of the honourable William Ramsay Maule. It was built in 1711, on the brink of a perpendicular rock overhanging the South Esk, and erected on the site of the old castle which sustained a siege of 20 days, in the year 1303, by the English army under Edward the First. Notwithstanding every effort used to compel the besieged to surrender, the brave gov- ernor, Sir Thomas Maule, held out till he was killedjjy a stone thrown from an engine, when the place was instantly given up. A descendant of this brave man was, in 1616, created Lord Maule of Brechin, and Earl of Panmure. The estates and title were attainted in 1715. While the property is again in possession of the family, the Peerage has not yet been restored.
Brechin is governed by a provost, two bailies, a dean of guild, treasurer, hospital master, convenor of trades, a trades councillor, and five ordinary councillors. It has six incorporated trades, and joins with Aberdeen, Aberbro thick, Montrose, and Bervie, in returning a member to Parliament. Brechin is a presbytery seat. A town court
59
i
*
is held in it every Wednesday, and a Justice of Peace court on the first Wednesday of every month.
Three new schools were erected a few years ago by sub- scription, one for the languages, taught by the preceptor of Maison Dieu, of which the crown is patron, another for the parochial school under the patronage of the heritors and magistrates, and the third for the mathematical depart- ment.
Besides the church belonging to the parish there are in Brechin two episcopal chapels, two meeting houses belong- ing to the united associate synod, one for the anti-burghers who refused to unite, and one for a very few methodists.
Two works have long since been established here, in which yarn is bleached on chemical principles, and these are carried on with such activity, that 10,000 lbs. are whitened at each, in the course of a week. Streams from the South Esk turn, at the lower extremity of the town, two mills for spinning linen yarn, one of which contains 16 frames, and the other 26, besides flour and other mills.
One distillery of considerable extent, established here, has attracted notice, by the superior quality of its whisky, and operations are about to be commenced in another.
A porter brewery is also carried on here with success, and a tannage ; but the business which occupies far the the greater part of the working classes in this place, is the manufacture of coarse linens, the yarn of which has previ- ously been bleached. This branch of trade is managed here, in favourable times, as in the other towns in Angus, with great and increasing activity.
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A branch of the Dundee Union bank, and one of the Montrose bank, is established here.
The weekly market is on Tuesday, and there are three great fairs held every year, viz, on the third Wednesday in April ; the second Wednesday in June, called Trinity fair, the greatest in the north of Scotland for sheep, cattle and horses ; and on the second Wednesday of August. Be- sides these, a market is held on the Tuesdays after each term of Whitsunday and Martinmas for hiring servants. There are horse markets on the last Tuesday of February, and all the Tuesdays of March, and cattle markets each Tuesday during winter.
The population of the town in 1821, was 4520, since then it has considerably increased.
Latitude, .56° 40' north, Longitude, 2n 18' east. Population town and parish, 1811, was 5559.
1821, 5906.
CRIEFF.
Crieff is a town situated in the county of Perth, and stewartry of Strathearn. It is about 17 miles west from Perth, and 22 north from Stirling.
Some have supposed that it derives its name from the Gaelic term Crubba Cuoc, which signifies the side of the hill ; others from the word Craobb, a tree.
This town is a place of respectable antiquity, — various notices of it occur in the Annals of Scottish History. Jus- tice Courts in air sat at Crieff at a period of a very distant date. It formed the head-quarters of the army of Mon- trose more than once during the civil wars of the ] 7th cen- tury, and in the two last eras of intestine commotion, it was traversed and occupied by the insurgent and royalist forces. In the year 1715 it was burned down by the Highlanders, and in all probability it would have undergone the same fate in 1745, if the Duke of Perth had not interfered to pre- serve it from destruction.
Crieff stands on the slope of a hill, having a fine exposure to the south-east, south, and south-west. It would be dif-
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ficult indeed, to convey by mere description, any adequate idea of the almost incomparable prospect of woods, rivers, vallies, and lofty mountains which the position of this town commands. The beauties of the surrounding scenery have justly become a theme of admiration to every intelligent traveller.
The town takes the rank of capital of Upper Strathearn, and constitutes the central point of communication between the north-west Highlands and the Lowland Counties. The new line of road from Inverness to Edinburgh by Tay- bridge also passes through this town.
From the salubrity of its atmosphere, Crieff has long been styled the Montpelier of Scotland. Lovers of the sublime and beautiful in nature, and persons of delicate health, fre- quently make it a place of sojourn. On every hand arise the magnificent seats of the nobility and gentry of this dis- trict— Drummond Castle, Strowan, Lawers, Clathick, Och- tertyre, Millearn, Ferntower, Mouzie, Cultoquher, Aber- cairnie Abbey, Inchbrackie, Dollerie, Castle Strathallan, Culdees Castle, Broich, and other elegant 'mansions adorn the country around Crieff, and several of them appear in the full view of the streets of the town.
The greater number of these residences present attrac- tions of the most powerful interest to the eye of taste and genius. No portion of the kingdom can, it is presumed, ex- hibit so many romantic and splendid villas within a similar space.
The Right Honourable Lord Gwyder, Anthony Murray, Esq. of Crieff and Dollerie, and Alexander xVJaclaurin, Esq.
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of Broich, are the chief proprietors of the town. The ground is feued from the superiors at the rate £16 per acre.
A large part of the inhabitants is employed in the manu- facture of cotton goods. The operations of brewing and tanning are also carried on to a considerable extent. On the streams in the vicinage, distilleries, corn, lint, oil, wool, paper, fulling, malt and bark mills, meet the eye in rapid succession.
Crieff was from time immemorial the emporium of the North for the sale of black cattle, till about the year 1770, when the great annual trysts were removed to Falkirk.
The former parish church was a Gothic building of a peculiar shape and size. At the pulling of it down in 1787 many bright gold coins of Robert the First, each of them equal in breadth to a modern guinea, and in value to 5s. 3d. Sterling, were found deposited in a niche of the wall about six feet from the ground. These curious relics of the olden time came into the possession of some of the neighbouring gentry,
The Steward of the Royal Demesne of Strathearn, kept his court at Crieff, till the Earldom was forfeited to the Crown, in 1320, by the treason of its heiress, Joanna, daughter of Malise, the last Earl.
This lady married the English Earl de Warren. The of- fice of Steward afterwards became vested in the House of Drummond, who enjoyed it until the abolition of heritable jurisdictions in the year 174S.
A baron bailie now exercises the authority of that ancient and noble family, in the name of Lord and Lady Gwydyr.
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There is a public library in the town, originally founded by a donation of books from the Honourable Baron Sii Patrick Murray, Bart, of Ochtertyre, and since that time enlarged and supported by subscription. There is also a Coffee-room for newspapers and reviews.
Mallet the poet, and Dow the historian of Hindostan, according to popular tradition, were educated at the school of Crieff. The late Dr. William Wright, an eminent phy- sician and naturalist, and Dr. Thomas Thomson, one of the living ornaments of science who now occupies a chair in the University of Glasgow, were natives of Crieff. The late Dr. John Barclay, the celebrated anatomist, though not a native of this town, passed his youth in its vicinity.
A weekly market is held every Thursday, and a number of general fairs take place during the course of the year.
The population of the whole parish in 1776 was 1977 ; in 1792 it was 2640 ; in 1811 it was 3300 ; in 1821 it was 4216 ; and in 1S27 the inhabitants of the town itself might amount to about 3700.
CUPAR OF FIFE.
Cupar is a Royal Burgh, and the County Town of Fife- shire. It is 22 miles north-east of Kinghorn, 10 west of St. Andrews, 12 south-west of Newport on Tay, 10 east from Falkland, and 30 miles from Edinburgh. It is de- lightfully situated on a plain, having a dry soil, and south- ern exposure on the banks of the river Eden, at its junction with a small stream called the Lady-burn. Cupar is 6 miles from Gairbridge, the nearest shipping place on the Eden ; and 9 miles from the junction of the river with St. Andrews Bay.
Cupar is a burgh of very great antiquity, having been from the most remote period the place where the Thanes of Fife held their Courts of Justice. The names of com- missioners from Cupar are found in the Rolls of Parliament in the reign of David II.
The Castle of Cupar is frequently mentioned in history as a place of strength and of great importance in trouble- some times, but no vestige of it now remains. Its site is occupied by a school house, and a small Theatre ; so that
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this spot, which in former times resounded with the din of arms and the deeds of the mighty, is now become the peaceful seat of learning, and the scene of scaithless en- counters !
On the Play Field, adjacent to the Castle Hill, the plays of Sir David Lindsay of the Mount were exhibited. The ' Satyr of the three Estates,' was acted here in the year 1555. From a manuscript play of Sir David Lindsay, in the possession of David Garrick, it appears that the Play- field of Cupar in Fife was well known and frequented, and had been in use long previous to this period, — indeed few towns of note in Scotland were without them. The play of the Satyr of the three Estates is what may be considered as the origin of the Scottish Drama, or, of those plays call- ed Moralities, which were then first divided into acts and scenes, though representations of what were called Mysteries, or holy plays, were exhibited by the Clergy in Scotland long before this date.
From the low situation of the town of Cupar, it is not seen at a distance ; it is seen from the east, but the point of view form whence it is seen to the greatest advantage is the north-west. The Streets are broad and spacious, and contain many elegant houses. The principal streets are the Bonnygate, the Millgate, or Waulker gate, the Cross- gate, and St. Catherines. The latter is a new and elegant street, in a line with the Bonnygate ; in this street is sit- uated the County Hall and Public Rooms, and an Inn of very superior architecture, affording every accommodation to the traveller. This street, particularly, may vie with some of the best streets in the metropolis.
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This town, taken altogether, is one of the neatest, most regular, and best built county town in Scotland, — The an- cient part of the town, with all its irregularity, has dissappear- ed, and Cupar may almost be said to have been rebuilt within the last half century, and continues to extend its dimen- tions in every direction. It is noted for its well paved streets, which are kept remarkably clean, and well lighted.
The Parish church, which is a colleigate charge, is a handsome modern building. The turret, which is detached from it, belonged to an ancient church, and has a beautiful eliptical spire, much admired for its light and airy appear- ance. The Episcopal Chapel is a beautiful building ele- gantly fitted up, and an ornament to St. Catherine Street.
Cupar has been much and justly celebrated for the ex- cellence of its schools, and it possesses a valuable public library. About four years ago an Academy was established here by subscription. The town council gave over to the subscribers their two schools on the Castle Hill, and the Theatre, and also the salaries of the former schoolmasters. This very flourishing establishment is conducted by a rector and four masters, who teach English reading and elocution writing and drawing, arithmethic and mathematics, natural philosophy, astronomy, chemistry, and the Latin and Greek languages. There are about 300 pupils attending the different classes. There is no parish school, but there is about a dozen of seminaries for the ordinary branches of education in the parish, partly supported by subscriptions, but chiefly by fees from the scholars.
There was a convent of Dominicans, or Black Friars, at the east end of the town with a fine chapel, founded by
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the prior of St. Andrews in the year 1415; no traces of this edifice remain. The tower of the parish church already men- tioned, is the most interesting piece of antiquity in the town, the spire was built by Mr. William Scot, minister of Cupar, in the year 1642.
The new prison erected on the south side of the Eden, is much more like an elegant modern mansion, than a prison, but it can only be admired for its outward appear- ance ; for the internal accommodations do not correspond with its exterior.
The principal trade of the town is the manufacture of brown linen, which is here carried on to a large extent, — from five to six hundred thousand yards have been annually stamped. There are spinning mills on the falls of the Eden, and one is erected on the Lady burn. There are also manufactures of ropes, candles, brick and tyle works, tan works, and several breweries.
The town is governed by a provost, three bailies, a dean of Guild, thirteen Guild councillors, and eight trades councillors or deacons, elected by the eight incorporated trades. It joins with St. Andrews, Dundee, Forfar and Perth, in sending a member to Parliament. The revenue of the town is about £500 per annum. Cupar being the county town, and head burgh of Fifeshire where the Courts of Law are held, and the public business of the county transacted, render it a place of great resort, and gay ap- pearance. The celebrity of the schools induce a great many families to reside here for the education of their chil- dren, and adds greatly to the general superior appearance of the town and its Inhabitants.
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An extensive Printing Office has been long established here, conducted by a spirited individual (Mr. Robert Tullis, Printer to the University of St. Andrews,) who has printed many beautiful editions of the Classics ; under the revision of Dr. John Hunter of St. Andrews, which, for accuracy and typography, are not inferior to any editions hitherto produced in this country.
The places of divine worship in Cupar, are, the estab- lished, or parish church, an episcopal chapel ; a relief, united secession, original burgher, and Baptist meeting houses. There is in Cupar an established branch of the British Linen Company, and another of the Commercial Bank of Scotland.
There are eight annual Fairs held here, viz. on the first Thursday in January, — first Wednesday in February, O. S. — first Wednesday in April, — 10th day of May, N. S — and the last Wednesday in May, O. S.-^-25th day of July, O. S. — first Thursday in October O. S.— rand the 11th day of November, O. S.
Population by the census of 1811, 4-758. 1821,5892.
DALKEITH.
— ***»im**>—
Damceitii is a considerable town in the parish of the same name, and shire of Edinburgh. It is 6 miles south-east of Edinburgh, and 18 miles north-west of Lauder, on the great south road from the capital. Dalkeith is situated on a narrow strip of land between the rivers North and South Esk, the banks of which are beautifully wooded and embel- lished with elegant seats of the most distinguished families in the county.
The principal street, called the High Street, is handsome and spacious, and contains a great number of elegant build- ings, the cross streets of communication from the north and south of the town, are wide and handsome, and the whole of the town is neat, clean, well paved, and airy. The church stands on the north side of the High Street, and is a venerable Gothic fabric, founded by James Dou- glas Earl of Morton, in the reign of James the Fifth. Fac- ing this edifice, is the tolbooth, a plain substantial building, having two ducal coronets in the front, bearing an inscrip- tion, EC. FR.M.L.B. 1648.
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The Grammar School of Dalkeith has long maintained a very high character for the abilities of its teachers, and many of the brightest ornaments of literature have here received the rudiments of their education. Besides the grammar school, there is a school conducted on the new system, for the education of children of both sexes, a large charity work house, or town's hospital, for the maintenance of the indigent belonging to the town, and several other benevolent institutions. There are several excellent inns in the town, a ball room elegantly fitted up, a mason lodge, &c. The rivers furnish numerous falls of water for driving machinery on their banks, and these falls are occu- pied by corn, flour, and snuff mills, skinneries, &c. in the immediate vicinity of the town. An iron mill and bleach- fields are in the neighbourhood.
Dalkeith is a burgh of barony, and gives the title of Earl to the eldest son of the Duke of Buccleuch. The only magis- trate is the Baron bailie, appointed by his Grace. The town as to its police revenue, is under the management of 15 trustees, (including the Baron bailie, who is considered preses) appointed by Act of Parliament. This act gives two pennies Scots on every Scots pint of ale or beer, brew- ed for sale, or vended within the town and parish, the monies arising from this ; the sweepings of the streets, and some small property ; is the only revenue of the town, which is small, yet by judicious management, much public good has been done. The Inhabitants are not burdened with any town's assessments, except the impost on beer as above mentioned. The town is about to be lighted with
12
gas, by a joint stock Company. The works (June 1827,) are proceeding rapidly.
Dalkeith is an elegant and gay town, and the summer resort of parties of pleasure from the capital, drawn hither by the enchanting beauty of the scenery, as well as by the excellent accommodation afforded to visitants. From Edin- burgh to Dalkeith, by the villages of Roslin and Lasswade, forms one of the most pleasant, picturesque, and delightful tours in the neighbourhood of the capital.
Dalkeith is one of the first markets for grain in Scotland. Monday is the market day for meal and flour, Thursday for grain. Very large quantities of oats are sold every market day, brought from the south country, viz. the up- per part of Berwickshire, East Lothian, and Teviotdale. Of the grain at market, it is not uncommon for the sales to amount to 5000 bolls on a market day, and may average S00O bolls per week, through the year, when the country produces a fair crop. This large quantity is all disposed of in a limited time, and for ready money, a matter of great importance to the farmer. On the ringing of the market bell, the sacks are opened, the carts as they arrive are placed in regular order on the High Street, or market place, and the sample sacks having been all ranged in rows, the bell rings at 12 o'Clock, and all is instantly bustle and activity — the samples are examined — the bargains made — the money paid, and the whole corn sold in the short space of a quarter of an hour ; at half past twelve the bell again rings, and a similar scene again takes place, as to wheat, barley, beans and pease.
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Dalkeith contains a few thriving manufactories, but can- not be considered a manufacturing town. The established manufactures, are those of leather, candles, soap and hats, but the chief support of the town is its markets, and trade with the surrounding country.
Adjoining to the town, is Dalkeith House, the principal seat of the Duke of Buccleuch, on the southern bank of the north Esk. This elegant and extensive building was erected about the beginning of the last century, by the family of Scott, upon the site of an ancient castle which had been long in the possession of the Douglas family, and was afterwards the frequent residence of the Regent Mor- ton, during the minority of James the Sixth, at which time it was significantly called the " Lion's den." This edifice consists of a main body and two wings, with ornaments of the Corinthian order in front. The hall, the grand stair case, and the several suits of rooms are large, and finished in the highest stile of elegance ; superbly furnished, and contain a fine collection of valuable paintings. The beau- ties of the situation are much heightened by the serpentine windings of the two rivers, which form a junction about half a mile below the House. The banks of both rivers are beautified by natural woods, and most romantic scen- ery, and art has added extensive walks, laid out with great taste. Within view of the house there is an elegant bridge of polished freestone, built within these few years as an ornament to the grounds, a cascade at this spot has a fine effect. The park, which is amongst the largest in the country, containing 800 Scotch, or 1000 English Acres,
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is surrounded by a stone wall, and well stocked with deer ; it is adorned with a quantity of fine wood, and a number of venerable oaks.
Smeaton or East Park House, within the inclosures, contains a menage and an aviary, the garden grounds are tastefully laid out, and kept in the highest order, these grounds contain a great variety of exotic plants, and are famed for the excellence of their productions. The Palace of Dalkeith was honoured by being the resi- dence of his Majesty, on his visit to Scotland in August 1822.
The market of Dalkeith is noted for its plentiful and excellent supply of all kinds of meat, particularly mut- ton, vegetables are abundant and cheap, and the town is in the immediate neighbourhood of extensive fields of coal.
Besides the parish church, there are meeting houses, or places of worship belonging to the united associate synod, the relief, original burghers, independents, and me- thod ists.
There are three bank branches in the town, one of the Commercial Bank of Scotland, one of the Leith Bank, and one of the National Bank of Scotland. The Leith Bank is the oldest of the three.
The stables belonging to the Midlothian hunt are here, and the hounds are kept in the vicinity, and regularly hunt- ed in the neighbourhood.
A fair is held here in May, on the first Tuesday after Rutherglen fair, but the principal fair, known by the name
15
of Dalkeith fair, is held on the third Tuesday in the month of October.
Population, town and parish, in 1811, 4709.
1821, 5169.
DINGWALL.
Dingwall is a Royal Burgh in the parish of that name, and County of Ross. It is 23 miles north by west of In- verness, 26 south-west of Tain, 20 south-west of Cromarty, 10 north of Beauly, and 178 miles N. N. west of Edinburgh.
The town is pleasantly situated on a fertile plain at the west end of the Firth of Cromarty, which is navigable for small vessels as far up as the town. It appears that the town of Dingwall was anciently much more extensive than at present, causeways and foundations of houses have been found some hundred yards distant from the present site of the town. The name was formerly Dingnaval, expressive of the richness of the soil of the low grounds.
It was erected into a Royal Burgh by Alexander the Se- cond in the year 1226, which erection and privileges were confirmed by a charter granted in the reign of James the Fourth. By these charters Dingwall is entitled ' to all the privileges, liberties, and immunities possessed by the burgh of Inverness.'
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The town consists of one neat well paved street, and se- veral lanes, the buildings are substantial, and many of them handsome. It is well situated for trade, but hitherto no particular branch of manufacture has been introduced.
The municipal government of the town is vested in a pro- vost, two hailies, a dean of Guild, treasurer, and 10 coun- cillors ; and it joins with Tain, Dornoch, Wick, and Kirk- wall, in sending a member to Parliament.
Near the town are the ruins of the Castle of Dingwall, the ancient residence of the Earls of Ross. It has been a regular fortification, surrounded by a deep ditch and glacis, where not defended by the sea, and stands close upon the shore.
The Earl of Ross was the most powerful of the Scottish Barons, and proprietor of a great part of this country, pre- vious to the forfeiture of the last Earl. Many of the ancient families in Ross-shire held their estates from him by char- ters dated, ' apud castrum nostrum de Dingwall.' Near the church is an Obelisk which was erected by George, first Earl of Cromarty, Secretary of State for Scotland in the reign of Queen Anne. It stands upon an artificial mount, the bottom of which covers about two-thirds of an English acre. It is only six feet square at the base, and rises in a pyramidal form to the height of 57 feet. It was erected to distinguish the burying place of the family. A Mineral Spa, similar to that of Harrowgate, is situated about four miles to the west of the town.
Dingwall is a post town, and the neighbourhood is orna- mented by a number of beautiful mansions. It has a good parish school, two English academies, and a young Ladies
78
Boarding School. Besides the parish church there is an episcopal chapel.
The weekly market day is Friday, and two annual Fairs are held ; on the first Tuesday in July O. S. and on the Tuesday before old Christmas.
The parish of Dingwall forms nearly a square of two miles. It occupies a fine valley, with part of the sloping sides of the hills which form the valley, — a great proportion of which is in a very high state of cultivation. There is but little waste land, and the whole parish forms a beau- tifully diversified scene of hill and dale ; wood and water, corn fields and meadows. The river Conan runs through the parish, and falls into the Cromarty Firth. It abounds with Salmon and Trout, and on it is a very productive Salmon fishery, — formerly pearls of great value were found near its mouth.
The Population of the town and parish, as stated by Dr. Webster, was in 1775, 997, in 1791 it was 1379.
in 1801, 1418. 1811, 1508. 1821, 2031.
DUNBARTON.
—*♦»#••«♦« —
The Royal Burgh of Dumbarton, is in the parish of the same name ; and is the county town of Dunbarton-shire — it is 15 miles to the north-west of Glasgow, and 59 miles west from Edinburgh. It is situated on a low peninsula, almost surrounded by the river Leven, about half a mile above the junction of that river with the Clyde.
This town is of very great antiquity, having received its first charter from Alexander the Second in the year 1221, by which it enjoyed very extensive privileges. This charter having been lost, all its ancient rights were confirmed by a charter of novo damus from James the Sixth in 1609. Bv these grants it possesses a large common of some miles in ex- tent, and the valuable privilege of salmon fishing in the river Leven, and on the Clyde, from Kelvin to Loch Long, — part, however, of these privileges, as to the Clyde fishing, have been lost by not using their rights.
The town has one principal street, called the High Street, bending to the circular course of the river Leven. This street is broad and spacious, and well paved, contain-
so
ing a number of handsome modern houses — there are also several smaller streets, or lanes, and a large suburb stands on the west side of the river, in the adjoining parish of Car- dross, on the road leading to the village of Renton. In the neighbourhood of Dunbarton is the hunting seat of Robert de Bruce. Near the east end of the town, and fronting the High Street, stands a handsome church, with a spire and clock. The old town house, which included the jail, is now in ruins ; but an elegant building has recently been erected, containing a spacious court room and public offices for the use of the town and county. Immediately adjoin- ing stands a newly erected comfortable jail, surrounded by an extensive court.
Besides the established church there is a burgher meet- ing house, and a Roman catholic ehapel. A little to the north of the town, on the bank of the river, are the ruins of a Collegiate church, founded by the Queen of Alexander the Second.
Dunbarton has a grammar school under the patronage of the magistrates and council. It contains also a Sunday school, and others, for the education of children of both sexes; a public library, and several benevolent societies. There are two good inns, affording every accommodation to travellers.
The municipal government of the town is vested in a provost, two bailies, a dean of guild, a treasurer, and ten councillors, and has five incorporated trades. It joins with Glasgow, Renfrew, and Rutherglen, in sending a member to Parliament.
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Some time prior to the year 1609, this town suffered greatly from an inundation of the rivers Clyde and Leveri. In that year the King and Parliament granted to Dunbar- ton, 37,000 merks Scotch, for raising bulwarks to resist any future inundations of these two rivers, — but these do not appear to have been completed, so as to reclaim the land lost, amounting to nearly 200 acres, which is almost overflowed every tide. The ruins of buildings are still dis- cernible.
The suburbs are connected with the town, near to its west end, by a bridge of five arches over the Leven, built by government about 50 years ago ; the centre arch is 52 feet span ; the whole length of the bridge being above 300 feet.
The estuary of the Leven forms a good harbour, where an extensive quay, and a capacious dock, has been con- structed. The latter is 220 feet long, and 35 feet broad, and is considered as one of the best docks on the Clyde. There are also two building yards, in which about 40 sail- ing vessels have been built within the last three years, of from 45 to 280 tons burden, and 30 steam vessels of from 70 to 210 tons register.
The Leven is navigable by coasting vessels to the town of Dunbarton, and there are nearly 2700 tons of shipping, registered and unregistered, belonging to the port.
The resident burgesses of Dunbarton have the privilege of exemption from all river and harbour dues, payable at the port of Glasgow ; by virtue of a contract entered into with that City, and ratified by Act of Parliament in the year 1701.
Dunbarton carries on a very considerable domestic trade, and the weaving of cotton goods for the Glasgow manufac- turers, employs a number of looms, besides several consid- erable printfields and bleachfields in constant employment. l>ut the principal manufacture of the town is that of crown, or window gkiss, bottles, &c. made here to a very large amount, this being the largest establishment of the kind in Scotland.
These works employ a large portion of the shipping be- longing to the port of Dunbarton; and give work to upwards of 300 persons, and pay an annual Excise duty of nearly £120,000. Sterling. ;
The less important manufactures of this town, are linen, linen yarn, leather, candles, hats, glue, excellent breweries, and several tan works.
The chief imports are corn, meal, and timber; also kelp and sand for the use of the glassworks. The revenue of the town amounts to about £900. per annum, arising chiefly from the fishings on the Leven, the towns customs or dues, an extensive moor of upwards of 2000 acres, and other pro- perty belonging to the burgh.
Dunbarton is the seat of a presbytery, belonging to the synod of Glasgow and Ayr.
Dunbarton Castle, so famed in Scottish history, is situa- ted about half a mile from the town, on a point of land formed by the junction of the Clyde and Leven. It is placed upon the top of a basaltic rock, forming two remark- able craggy summits separated by a deep chasm. The sides of this rock are precipitous and irregular, composed of rude basaltic columns, of which huge masses have been
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broken off, and fallen to the bottom. The buildings, con- sisting of the Barracks, Batteries, &c. placed upon the top of the rock, have a most imposing effect, and must have been impregnable in ancient times. The entry to the for- tress was anciently from the west, but now by a gate at the south-east corner, — and within the ramparts are the Governor's House, Officers lodgings, and Guard House. From hence the ascent is by a very long flight of stone steps, leading up through the chasm to the upper Batteries where there are a Barrack for the Soldiers, and a reservoir for water. This fortress, according to Boethius was possess- ed by the Caledonians, and resisted all the efforts of the Romans under Agricola to reduce it. It was the strongest fortification in the Kingdom in the time of the venerable Bede and deemed impregnable. It was, however, reduced by famine in the year 756, by Egbert, King of Northum- berland,— and was taken by Escalade on the 2d April, in the year 1571.
The Sword of Sir William Wallace is preserved in Dun- barton Castle, a relict held in veneration by all Scotchmen.
Many parts of the rock is said to be highly magnetic, af- fecting the compass at a considerable distance. The true Scots Thistle is found here in great abundance.
The Castle of Dunbarton was once considered as com- manding the navigation of the Clyde and the key to the Western Highlands; it is consequently included in the arti- cles of union, as one of the four forts to be kept in repair.
It is garrisoned by a governor, lieutenant-governor, a subaltern officer, and a party of invalids. The views from the summits are particularly grand, comprehending a distant L
84
prospect of the majestic Ben Lomond. The firing of a cannon from the Prince Regent's Battery resembles many peals of thunder, from the sound reverberating from one hill to another.
The market days are Tuesday and Friday, and there are Fairs held on the third Tuesday in March ; on the second Tuesday and Wednesday in August, and a large cattle market is held on Carman -moor, distant two miles, on the first Wednesday in June.
Population of the Town and Parish in 1811, 3121.
1821, 3481.
DUNDEE.
Dundee is a large and flourishing sea port and a royal burgh, in the parish of that name, and county of Angus, seated on the north side of the river Tay, about 12 miles from the mouth of that river, where it falls into the German Ocean, Long. 3° 3' west of Greenwich, Lat. 56° 27' 23" north. It is 22 miles east from Perth, 18 miles south-west of Arbroath, 14. south of Forfar, and 40 miles north by east of Edinburgh.
Dundee is a presbytery seat* It is. a large and well built town, consisting of four principal streets, diverging from the High Street; or Market place, which is a spacious square, 360 feet long, and 100 feet in breadth, with several cross streets and lanes. On the south side of this . square stands the Town House, an elegant structure, having a handsome front adorned. with piazzas, and a spire 140 feet high. This building was finished in 1734, from a plan of the elder Adams, and contains the Guild Hall, the Court Room, Town Clerk's Oifice, &C, with vaulted repositories for the Town's Records. The upper floors are employed
86
as a prison, and the under part is occupied as an office by the Dundee Banking Company. At the east end of the square the Trades Hall presents a conspicuous appearance, it is an elegant building with a front of Ionic pillasters, and a very neat cupola. The under floors are occupied as shops, above are rooms for the different incorporations, and a large hall for general meetings, which also serves the purpose of a Subscription Coffee Room. In Castle Street, so named from an old castle which stood there, stands an elegant episcopal chapel, and in the same street a very neat thea- tre. To the west of the High Street, is the old church, in which were originally four places of worship, and it has been, when entire, a very magnificent edifice. It has a large square Gothic tower or steeple, 156 feet high, at the west end ; said to have been erected by David Earl of Hunting- don, in 1189, in consequence of a vow made to the Virgin Mary, for his deliverance from shipwreck on his return from his third crusade. A new and elegant church is now built adjoining to this old church.
The Sailors hall in Yeaman Shore, is a neat edifice, con- taining a spacious hall for general meetings, and smaller committee rooms, apartments for their records, and con- venient lodgings for their officer, in the ground floor. The Infirmary is a large plain building, opened in 1798, for the reception of the indigent sick. A dispensary previously established under the patronage of Lord Douglas, is now attached to this institution. About a mile from the town, on an eminence towards the Hill of Dundee, stands Dud- hope Castle, an ancient fabric, now converted into barracks.
37
Dundee contains many charitable and benevolent insti- tutions, a detail of which our limits forbid us to enter upon. Most of the streets are neat, clean, well paved and lighted with gas, and the houses, where they are not ele- gant, are well built and commodious. The Nethergate and Over, or Uppergate, strike off from the High Street to the west, and the Murray-gate, and Seagate to the eastward. The town is well supplied with water, every street has a public well, conveyed to the town in leaden pipes.
The situation of the town is most delightful, command- ing a fine view of the opposite coast of Fife, the passage of the river, with the numerous vessels passing up and down the Tay. To the west of the burgh, the environs are orna- mented by the great number of the residences of the more opulent citizens, on the bank of the river. These man- sions are in beautiful situations, handsomely built, and many of them elegant, and adorned with planting and shrubery. Upon the whole this town seems to have a right to its an- eient appellation of " Bonny Dundee."
The town of Dundee has long been famed for its semin- aries of education, and very early evinced a predilection for literature. The academy is an excellent establishment, where the ancient and modern languages, mathematics, natural and experimental philosophy, &c. are taught by able masters, the collection of philosophical apparatus is extensive. There is a public grammar school, and English schools, with many other seminaries for all the useful and ornamental branches of modern education.
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The harbour is admirably situated for trade, admitting vessels of great burthen. It has been lately greatly en- larged, a wet dock and a graving-dock have been added, and a new pier is nearly finished. There are at present about 170 vessels belonging to the port of Dundee, measuring about 17,000 tons, manned by 14 or 1500 Sea- men. There are ten ships employed in the Whale fishery, about 70 in the foreign trade, and the remainder in the coasting trade. Of these coasters 12 are in the London trade alone, which sail regularly twice a week. Dundee is one of the first commercial ports in Scotland. The principal imports are flax from the Baltic, timber from A- merica, — West India produce, spirits, wines, &c. and coal and lime. The exports consist of manufacturing and agri- cultural produce. The chief manufacture is that of linen of all kinds, brown linen has always been a staple article of manufacture. Bleached linen has been introduced only of late years, and promises to do well, the articles manu- factured are imitations of the sheeting and duck of Russia, and the doulas and shirting of Germany. Sail cloth is a great article of Dundee manufacture. In the last war it amounted to the amazing quantity of 700,000 yards per annum, — now it is considerably less. Bagging of all kinds, both for home use and exportation, is extensively made. Dundee thread, coloured and white, has been long in great esteem, and still continues to be manufactured.
The quantity of Flax annually imported amounts to 5 or 600 tons, the whole of which is manufactured in the town and neighbourhood. There are several extensive
89
lint spinning mills in the vicinity, and some large bleach- fields.
Ship building is extensively carried on, Sail making, Rope making, &c. Soap making, Sugar baking, Tanneries, Breweries, &c. are established here, as also a number of minor domestic manufactures.
Dundee was erected into a Royal Burgh by King Wil- liam the Lion, but all the records having been carried off or destroyed by Edward the First, — Robert de Bruce, re- cognized the rights of the burgh, by granting a charter dated at Aberbrothick, June 22. 1326, — these rights were confirmed and enlarged by charters from succeeding prin- ces, and finally confirmed by a charter from Charles the First, and ratified by Parliament 1 4th September 1641.
Dundee was burnt by Edward the First. It was taken and burnt by Richard the Second, again by the English in the reign of Edward the Sixth. It suffered greatly in the troubles of Charles the Second's reign, and during the usurpation of Cromwell ; being sometimes under one mas- ter, and again at the mercy of another. It was taken by storm by the Marquis of Montrose ; and was lastly stormed and completely pillaged by General Monk in 1651, when 60 ships were captured in the harbour, and afforded to the captors a booty in plate and money, " exceeding" says an old author, " all the plunder they had attained in the wars throughout all the three nations," at this time every soldier in Monk's army had £60. Sterling of plunder to his share.
The town is governed by a provost, four bailies, a dean of Guild, treasurer, and fifteen councillors, and joins with
90
Forfar, St. Andrews, Cupar, and Perth, in returning a mem- ber to Parliament. The revenues of the town amount to £4000. per annum.
Besides the three churches belonging to the establish- ment, there are several dissenting churches, viz. two Scotch episcopal, one English episcopal, one burgher, one relief, three independent, two united secession, one antiburgher two baptist, one unitarian, one Gaeiic, one methodist, and one Roman catholic chapel.
There are three Banking Companies in Dundee, viz. the Dundee Banking Company, Dundee New Bank, and the Dundee Union Bank. There is also a branch of the British Linen Company Bank, and a private bank.
The market day is Friday, and annual Fairs are held on the first Wednesday after the 26th day of May (at Glam- mis,) on the second Tuesday in July (at Stobs,) the 15th day of August, 19th September, 22d October, and the first Wednesday after the 22nd day of November (at Glammis.)
The Population of the town and parish by the census of 1801, was 26,084. 1811, 29,616. 1821, 30,575.
DUMFRIES.
Dumfries is a Royal Burgh in the parish of that name, and the County Town of Dumfries-shire. It is delightfully si- tuated on the north bank of the river Nith, about nine miles above the confluence of that river with the Solway Firth. It lies 72 miles south of Edinburgh, 80 south by east of Glasgow? 20 miles north east of Castle Douglas, 27 north east of Kirkcudbright, and 341 miles from Lon- don, by way of Manchester. The situation of the town, rising gradually from the river, is beautiful and advantage- ous. The town consists of one principal street, parallel to the river, of nearly a mile in length ; and eight cross streets and lanes, nearly one third of a mile in breadth. The houses, in general, are handsome, and the public buildings elegant. The town has a light and airy appearance, the streets are wide, well paved, clean, and lighted with gas. The High Street is nearly 100 feet wide, and in it are many superb shops and warehouses. The environs of the town are adorned by many neat houses and plantations — and the prospect, which is terminated at the distance of a
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few miles, by a continued chain of hills, covered with wood, or cultivated to their summits, exhibit a richness of scenery seldom exceeded.
There are two handsome churches belonging to the esta- blishment, with spires and clocks, one relief, two united secession, one episcopal, one methodist, and one indepen- dent meeting houses, with a Roman Catholic chapel. The parish church, St. Michael's, is very ancient, and deserves notice for its cemetry, which contains many elegant, curi- ous and antique monuments. In the north-west corner of this church yard is interred the remains of the celebrated Robert Burns, the- Scots Poet, who died! in Dumfries on the 22d July 1796, in the 37th year of his age. A splen- did mausolem was erected to his memory by the admirers of the immortal bard, at an expence of £1500,- raised in ; a short time by public subscription. The foundation stone was laid on the 5th June 1815, and the body removed from the place where it was originally interred, on the 19th day of the following September. It is a beautiful sepulchral monument, which, for symmetry and chasteness of design, has scarcely its equal in any age or country. An appro- priate inscription, and a most classic marble sculpture, is placed in the interior of the edifice. It is surrounded with handsome iron pallisades — planted with evergreens , and is certainly a cemetry worthy of Caledonia's highly gifted Bard.
The Infirmary is a magnificent building, founded in 1 776, at a period when very few charities of a similar kind were in Britain, and this is yet the only one in the south of Scot- land. It is under the management of governors, and is
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supported by annual subscription, donations, &c. — there is a lunatic assylum connected with it. The poor's hospital is another praiseworthy establishment — it was founded in 1753, by two brothers of the name of Moorhead, merchants in the town ; and is supported by collections at the church doors, legacies and donations. The greatest care is paid to the health, morals, and comfort of its poor inmates ; and the children of the destitute are taught to read and write. There are also many religious and benevolent societies in Dumfries, — among others, a ladies free school.
The academy was founded in 1802, and stands upon one of the most healthy and delightful situations to be found in the town or neighbourhood — the entire expense of the building was defrayed by voluntary subscription. The magistrates are patrons, and, with the Town Council, have the appointment of the masters. There is a handsome theatre, with a pro- jecting portico, tastefully decorated internally, and illumin- ated with gas. It is well attended during the season, and can generally boast of superior performers. The town-house is a large and elegant structure, containing a very spacious court room, and other offices. Nearly opposite to the court room stands the jail ; from whence the prisoners to be tried are conducted through a subterraneous passage which communicates with the court room. There are two subscription libraries ; two subscription reading and news rooms, well supplied with the London and Provincial pa- pers, and magazines — in one of these rooms there is an excellent billiard table.
Dumfries being the county town of the shire, and, as it were, the capital of the whole district of Galloway — pos-
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sessing the advantage of an easy and frequent intercourse with the metropolis, and all the chief towns in Scotland, it becomes a place of resort for the nobility and gentry of the adjoining counties. Independent of those who have only amusement in view, many are attracted hither by its excel- lent seminaries of education, the cheapness of living, and the salubrity of the air. Thus, Dumfries possesses more elegance of manners, and greater gaity, than is to be found in any town of its size in Scotland. The proportion of the inhabi- tants, who are descended of respectable families, and have received a liberal education, is greater in Dumfries than in any other part of the island ; and these, in consequence, give a more elevated and polished tone to the manners and general character of the people. There are annual horse races in the month of October, and the Caledonian Hunt meet here every fifth year.
The town is governed by a provost, three bailies, a dean of guild, treasurer, two town clerks, and twelve councillors, There are seven incorporated trades, with each a deacon chosen from among themselves, who elect one of their own number to be convenor, and another to be box master, these form what is called the grand committee of the seven trades. Dumfries, along with Lochmaben, Annan, Sanqu- har and Kirkcudbright, returns a member to Parliament, The revenue of the town is about £1600 per annum.
The assizes for the County of Dumfries, and the Stewarty of Kirkcudbright are held here twice in the year, viz. in April and September ; it is also the seat of the Sheriff and Commissary Courts, and of the Presbytery and Synod.
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A small Debt Court, and Borough Courts, are regularly held here.
There are several excellent Inns where every accomoda- tion is found, and the utmost attention paid to the wants and wishes of the traveller. One of these (the Commercial Inn,) is most deserving of notice, for its having been the head quarters of the Pretender, Charles Stuart, in Decem- ber 1745. The town has a most active police, the com- missioners of which, have aided most effectually the spirit of improvement shewn by the Inhabitants, as to removing nuisances, and making alterations and amendments on the streets, new market places, a Umber bridge for foot passen- gers over the Nith, &c. &c.
A new suit of rooms for balls and assemblies is in pro- gress, and a spacious quay is to be built on the banks of the river. The town is amply supplied with water by means of pipes, under the management of a water company. There are two stone bridges over the Nith, the lower bridge consists of nine arches, built in the 1 2th century, the other is an elegant structure built in the year 1800. In a square nearly in the centre of the town, stands a fine doric pillar, erected by the County of Dumfries, to the memory of the late Duke of Queensberry.
Dumfries possesses no staple manufacture, although al- most every branch of mechanical and commercial industry is practised. The commercial advantages of this port have been greatly increased within a short period, by obtaining an act of Parliament, empowering a certain number of com- missioners to be annually chosen to conduct the shipping concerns of the river ; since which period, great and impor-
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tant improvements have been effected. The dangerous sand banks in the Solway Firth have been made compari- tively safe, by placing buoys in the Scotch and English channels, obstructions of every kind have been removed, the river Nith has been confined by great and solid embankments, and stone jetties ; new cuts have been made where necessary, so that now most of the vessels may dis- charge their cargoes close to the town, which were obliged to unload at a considerable distance down the river. The consequence of all this has been, the vast improvement of the shipping interest. In the years 1808-9, the river dues from the shipping were only about £300 annually, now they are (1827) above £1000, — the tonnage of the vessels belonging to the port, amounts to upwards of 4000 tons.
The chief imports are timber, iron, hemp, tallow, coal, slate, wine, &e. the exports consist of wheat, barley, oats, potatoes, wool, and freestone. Considerable business is done in the manufacture of hosiery, chiefly lambs-wool. Hats are made, and there are several tan-yards, extensive breweries, and a distillery.
Dumfries was a place of some consideration in the twelfth century. It was in the Franciscan Church of this town that Robert Bruce slew the traitor Cumin who had betrayed liis secrets to Edward, on the 10th of February 1305. While England and Scotland were separate kingdoms, Dumfries was a place of strength where the Scots Borderers retired from the hostile incursions of the English. Since the beginning of the last century, it has made gradual and steady advances in wealth and population. Dumfries gives the title of Earl to the chief of the family of Crichton.
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Many ancient customs, formerly observed in Dumfries, are now abolished, but one still exists, the shooting for the Silver Gun. King James the Sixth, in one of his journies to England, presented to the trades of Dumfries, a small silver tube like a pistol barrel, called the Silver Gun ; with his royal licence to shoot for it every year, as a prize to the best marksman among the incorporations of the town. This has now dwindled down to an exhibition once every seventh year, and the birth day of the reigning monarch is the day fixed for the celebration of this festival. The last took place on the 23d April 1824.
The printing business is carried on in Dumfries, and there are two weekly news-papers published, both have an extensive circulation, and are respectably conducted. There are branches of the Bank of Scotland, British Linen Com- pany, Commercial Bank of Scotland, and the Galloway Bank. The market days are Wednesday and Saturday for domestic purposes, on Wednesdays the Cattle market i* the largest in Scotland, and during the season many thou- sand carcasses of pork are sold. Fairs are held on the first Wednesday in February, O. S. — this Fair is remarkable for the immense quantity of hare skins sold, in some years to the value of £6000. On the 26th day of May, or the Wednesday thereafter ; on the 25 th September, or Wed- nesday after ; and on the 22d November, or Wednesday thereafter. These are chartered Fairs, and a vast number of Horses are shewn, these are more resorted to than any Fairs in the South of Scotland.
Maxwelltown, formerly the village of Bridge-end is now a Burgh of Barony, in- the Stewarty of Kirkcudbright, and
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connected with Dumfries by the two bridges across the Nith. In no instance have the good effects of erecting a village into a Burgh of Barony been more conspicuous than Maxwelltown. The charter was obtained from the Crown in 1810, and since that time from being a poor village, notorious for disorderly conduct, for it was a remark of the late Sir John Fielding's, thut he could trace a rogue over the whole Kingdom, but always lost him at the Bridge-end of Dumfries, it has improved in the value and extent of houses, and increased considerably in the number and re- spectability of its Inhabitants. It is governed by a provost, two bailies, and Councillors.
The Population of the town and Parish by the census of
1801, was 7288.
1811, 9262.
1821, 11,052.
DUNFERMLINE.
Dunfermline is a royal burgh in the parish of that name, and county of Fife. It is situated in the western district of Fife-shire, about 3 miles from the Firth of Forth, on an eminence rising to 227 feet above the level of the sea, and commanding a most extensive, varied, and beautiful pros- pect. It lies 3 miles north of the port of Limekilns, 5 miles south of Charlestown, 6 from the North Queensferry, 7 north-east from Culross, 10 south by west of Kinross, and 17 miles north-west of Edinburgh.
Dunfermline has one principal street, the High Street, extending from east to west, and continued westward by Bridge Street, and eastward by East Port Street. It runs along the face of the hill, and is crossed at right angles hy other streets, in which are many elegant and well built houses. The Town House is in Bridge Street and has a spire and clock. The Jail is in the same building. Near- ly in the centre of the High Street, stands the Guild Hall now private property, and occupied as an Inn. It contains assembly rooms, and apartments for meetings of public N
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bodies, and has a steeple 132 feet high. Few old houses remain in the town to mark the taste of ancient times.
The ground falls with a considerable declivity to the south, and the lower part of the town is called the Nether- ton. The size of the town is rapidly increasing by the feu- ing of the lands of Pittencrieff on the west of the burgh. This part of the town is joined to that within the burgh, by a bridge or rather an earthen mound, on which a street is formed (Bridge Street,) of 300 feet long. The water of Lyne passes from north to south, dividing the royalty from the suburbs of Pittencrieff.
Dunfermline is the seat of a presbytery, and one of the most considerable manufacturing towns in the county. The manufacture of damask and diaper table-linen, has here been carried to the utmost state of perfection, and is the staple manufacture of the town. It has been so from a very early period, and now employs the bulk of the po- pulation. The introduction of machinery, so universal in all the branches of the weaving trade, has had a tendency to reduce the number of looms wrought by the hand, though there are still from 1500 to 2000 employed in the town and vicinity. There are several spinning mills and bleachfields in the neighbourhood of the town, soap works, tannaries, &c.
The government of the town is vested in a provost, two bailies, dean of Guild, and twenty-two councillors, annually elected, and joins with Queensferry, Culross, Stirling, and Inverkeithing in returning a member to Parliament. The revenue of the town is about £1500. per annum.
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The ingenuity of the inhabitants in weaving, appeared at an early period, — there is preserved in the chest of the in- corporation of weavers, a man's shirt wrought in the loom, more than a century ago, by a man of the name of Inglis ; which is without seam, or the least assistance from the needle. The button for the neck, alone, baffled his ingen- uity. A woman's shift, is also preserved, made at a later period, by a man named Meldrum, upon the same princi- ples.
At a very early period Dunfermline became a royal re- sidence, Malcolm the Third, surnamed Canmore, who reigned from the year 1057 to 1093, resided in a tower or castle, built upon a peninsulated hill, formed by the water of Lyne, in a valley on the west of the town. He was also the original founder of the church, or monastery of Dunferm- line. A palace was afterwards built not far from the tower on the east, in a most romantic situation, the south-west wall of which remains a monument of the. magnificent fa- bric, of which it was a part.
The monastery as mentioned, was founded by Malcolm Canmore, for monks of the order of St. Benedict, and was completed by his son Alexander the First. It continued to be governed by a prior till the reign of David the First, who raised it to the dignity ot* an abbey, and who in 1124, translated thither 13 Monks from Canterbury. The abbey was richly endowed, and derived part of its revenues from distant parts of the kingdom. It was a magnificent and extensive fabric, but fell an early sacrifice to the plunder- ing army of Edward the First in the year 1303. All that was. at that time saved of this magnificent, edifice, was. the
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church, and a few cells of the Monks. These were demo- lished at the reformation— so that the remains of the abbey are inconsiderable.
A part of the ancient abbey was occupied till within the last few years as the parish church. The old steeple remains, from the top of which there is a very rich and extensive view of the surrounding country, and of more remote districts of Scotland, comprehending altogether, it is said, not fewer than 14 counties. Here are interred Malcolm Canmore, and his Queen, Margaret, with seven other kings of Scotland, and five queens, besides many of the most eminent men of the kingdom ; Dunfermline having been appointed by Malcolm Canmore, to be the royal ce- metry of Scotland.
In clearing the ground for the erection of a new church, the remains of that celebrated hero, King Robert the Bruce was discovered on the 18th February, 1818. On the 5th November, 1819, these sacred remains, after the inspection of the Barons of Exchequer, &c. were re-interred in the spot where they had been originally deposited in the year 1329. The new church is erected over his grave, and the pulpit is placed directly over his ashes.
The burgh held of the monastery of Dunfermline for more than two centuries, and became a royal burgh by a charter from James the Sixth, dated 24th May, 1588. In this charter, called a charter of confirmation, the king rati- fies sundry charters, donations and indentures, by John and Robert, abbots of Dunfermline, and in particular, one, dat- ed 10th February 1395, by which the abbot and convent renounce in favour of the eldermen and community, the
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whole income of the burgh belonging to their revenue, with the small customs, profits of Court, &c. reserving, how- ever, the " power of punishment should any of the magis- trates be guilty of injustice in the exercise of their office." The present set of the' burgh was fixed by a decreet arbi- tral of the committee of the convention of royal burghs, 1 3th July, 1724.
The high school in Queen Ann Street, is a commodious building, and the system of instruction ably conducted. There are other schools for the various branches of educa- tion, and some charitable establishments and institutions. Besides the parish church, there is a chapel of ease belong- ing to the establishment, three chapels in connexion with the united secession, one old burgher, one relief, one bap- tist meeting house, and a chapel belonging to the metho- dists. There is a branch of the Bank of Scotland, and one of the Commercial Bank of Scotland.
The market days are Tuesday and Friday, the former is the corn-market day, and annual fairs are held on the third Wednesday in January, O. S. on the second Wednes- day in March, the fourth Wednesday in April, the first Wednesday in July, the first Tuesday in August, the fourth Friday in September, and the fourth Wednesday in Nov- ember.
The parish of Dunfermline is about eight miles long from north to south, by six in breadth, the soil is fertile and mostly under tillage, but to the north of the town it is more barren and uncultivated. There are some lakes in the par- ish, and a good deal of planting. It abounds with valuable mines and minerals, coal of a very superior quality is found
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in almost every part, great quantities of which are exported from the neighbouring sea ports of Inverkeithing, Lime- kilns, and Charlestown. Freestone is in abundance, of a fine quality, as is also whinstone for paving. Limestone is wrought to an immense extent, the Earl of Elgin's lime- works are the most extensive in Britain. Ironstone is found in abundance, and is exported in great quantities to the Carron Works.
The Population of the town and parish by the census of
1801, was 9,980.
1811, 11,649.
1821, 13,681. Of this population the royalty contains nearly one half*. The Town, including Pittencrieff suburb, above 1,1,000.
DUNKELD.
Dunkeld is an ancient burgh of Barony in the united parishes of Dunkeld and Dowally, and county of Perth ; charmingly situated on the north bank of the river Tay. It is 15 miles north of Perth, 20 south-east of Blair in Athol, 12 west of Blairgowrie, and 57 miles north of Edin- burgh.
The scenery around Dunkeld has always been the ad- miration of visitors. Nature has been profuse in producing and combining every object that can form the grand, the picturesque, and the beautiful in landscape; and the taste of the noble proprietor has improved these beauties to their utmost extent. The scenery in this neighbourhood is no- where surpassed in Scotland.
Dunkeld was the capital of ancient Caledonia, and had a monastery of Culdees founded in it by a Pictish king, about the dawn of Christianity. This monastery was converted into a bishopric by David the First in the year 1130, and ranked in his time as the first in the kingdom. The cathe- O
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dral, which is about 200 feet long, and 60 wide, has been a fine building, though now much delapidated, the archi- tecture is partly Saxon, and partly Gothic. The choir is still entire, and used as the parish church — -it was built by Bishop Sinclair in 1350, who is buried here. It also con- tains the tomb of Alexander, Earl of Buchan, natural son of Robert the Second, commonly called the Red Wolf of Badenoch ; he was excommunicated for burning the town and cathedral of Elgin, but having made his peace with the clergy, was buried in holy ground.
The bishopric was held by many men celebrated for their learning and abilities, amongst others, by Gavin Douglas in the year 1516. On the north side of the choir is the char- ter house, built by Bishop Lauder in 1469, the vault of which is now used as the burial place of the family of Athol ; and the upper room is occupied as a charter room by the Duke. The lower at the west end of the north aisle is remarkably elegant.
Dunkeld is a flourishing little town, and the chief mar- ket town of the Northern Highlands. It carries on some manufactures of linen and yarn, and a considerable tannery is in full employment. The town lies to the east of the cathedral and parish church, and extends northward on both sides of the great Highland road. The houses in gene- ral are plain and well built ; the buildings in the new streets (Athol and Bridge Street) are more elegant. The Duke's Arms Inn is an elegant and commodious building at the Cross. It has a Grammar school, Mason lodge, &c. Be- sides the parish church, there is a Glassite chapel and a
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missionary church. A magnificent bridge of seven arches has been thrown over the Tay, at an expence of £30,000, of which government gave £5000 — the remainder was paid by the Duke of Athol. One of the arches is a span of 90 feet, two are of 84 feet, and two of 74 feet span — the other two smaller are land arches. This bridge was begun in 1805, and finished in 1 809. The construction of this bridge was in some degree novel — it was chiefly built on dry land, and the course of the river was then turned to answer the bridge.
The government of the town is vested in a Baron Bailie, appointed by his Grace the Duke of Athol, who is the su- perior. Charles the Second offered it a charter of erection into a royal burgh, but the offer was declined. The town has been hitherto much circumscribed by the policies of the Duke on three sides, and by the river on the south ; but since the bridge has been finished, the delightful plain on the south bank of the Tay has been purchased, and feued out for building. Dunkeld was formerly much re- sorted to by invalids in summer, for the benefit of goat's whey — to this beverage, the salubrity of the air, the sereni- ty of mind produced by the contemplation of the charming scenery, with the moderate exercise thereby induced, could not fail to contribute most essentially to the cure.
Dunkeld House, the principal seat of the Duke of Athol, stands a little to the north of the cathedral, and is a plain neat building, without any of that magnificence generally seen in a ducal residence. The gardens are extensive, and abound with fruit, which here arrives at great perfection.
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The plantations have been much extended, and occupy above four thousand acres. The gardens, the cascade, the extensive pleasure grounds, and delightful scenery, are the objects which attract the notice of the Tourist, both foreign and native.
Ossian's Hall, or Hermitage, on the small river Braan, from whence the cascade is seen to the best advantage, is described by Mr. Gilpin, as a scene the most interesting of the kind he ever saw. " The whole scene, and its accom- paniments," he observes, " are not only grand, but pic- turesquely beautiful in the highest degree. The composi- tion is perfect, but yet the parts so intricate, so various, and so complicated, that I never found any piece of nature less obvious to imitation, it would cost the readiest pencil a summer's day to bring off a good resemblance."
In the year 1648, Sir James Galloway, master of re- quests to James the Sixth, and to Charles the First, was created Lord Dunkeld, — his grandson James being attaint- ed at the revolution, the title became extinct.
The weekly market day is Saturday, and there are five annual fairs, viz. on the 14th day of February, N. S. and on the 25th, O. S., on the 20th day of June, should any of these days fall on Saturday, Sunday, or Monday, it is not held till Tuesday. On the 8th and the 31st days of Decem- ber, O. S. should any of these days be Sunday, it is held on the Saturday preceding.
There is in Dunkeld a branch of the Perth Banking Company, and another of the Commercial Bank of Scot- land ; whose chief trade is in discounts for the extensive
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tract of Highland country northward, where a very con« siderable traffic in cattle is carried on.
Population of the Town and Parish, 1811, 1360.
1821, 1364.
EDINBURGH.
This magnificent City, the Metropolis of Scotland, is situated in the northern part of the County of Edinburgh or Mid-Lothian ; and lies in 55° 5J' north latitude, and 3° 14' west longitude from Greenwich ; nearly a mile and a half south of the Firth of Forth, and about the same distance from Leith, the sea port of Edinburgh. It is 16 miles west of Haddington, 42 east of Glasgow, 128 south S. west of Aberdeen, and 156 south of Inverness. It is distant 390 miles, north by west of London, and 92 \ miles from Car- lisle.
This City is more than two miles long, is about the same in breadth, and the circumference of the whole is nearly eight miles, it is rapidly increasing in all directions.
It stands upon three distinct hills or elevations. The old town occupies chiefly the centre elevation, extending, nearly in a straight line, from the perpen- dicular rock on which the Castle is built, at the wes*
112
tern extremity, to the Palace of Holyrood House on the east.
The High Street occupies the flat surface of this central ridge, and measures from the gate of the Cas- tle to the Palace-gate, 5570 feet in length, and in ge-r neral 90 feet in breadth. From the High Street de- scend numerous lanes or dosses on the declivities, north and south of this central ridge. Parallel to the High Street, in the valley on the south, runs a street called the Cowgate, from 10 to 20 feet in breadth; the rising ground in this direction is covered with build- ings ; forming a mixture of the ancient and modern architecture, extending in streets, squares, and villas, to a distance of one and a half miles.
The northern valley, called the North Loch, is laid out in ornamented grounds on the west, and the whole of this valley is in progress of being laid out in the same manner.
A mound of earth crosses this valley to the west* ward, which was formed with the earth dug from the foundations of buildings in the new town, and is near- ly 1000 feet long, about 200 in breath, and SO feet high above the surface of the valley. At the north end of this mound, there has lately been erected a beautiful square building, appropriated to the Royal Institution for the encouragement of the Fine Arts. Near the eastern extremity of this valley, it is crossed by a beautiful Bridge, called the North Bridge, foun- ded in the year 1763. This Bridge consists of three great central arches of J2 feet each, with two smal- ler ones at each end. The length of the Bridge is 1270 feet, the breadth 50 feet, and the height 68 feet. North Bridge Street is terminated on the north by
J 13
Princes Street crossing it at right angles, and the Register Office, one of the most elegant edifices in Edinburgh.
The so.iithrrn valley is crossed by a Bridge called the South Bridge ; this Bridge was opened in I788, and consists of 22 arches, one of which only is visi- ble j which is the centre arch over the Cowgate. This bridge is on a line with the North Bridge, and crosses the High Street at right angles ; forming an elegant street of nearly equal length with the High Street, and dividing the old town into nearly two equal halfs-
The New Town stands upon the horizontal ridge, on the north side of the old town, having an incon- siderable elevation on the south, declining to the sea on tbe north, and maybe divided into two parts, viz. the New Town designed in 1/67, which is completed ; and the other additional buildings, streets, and squares, erecting on the east, west, and north, of the former.
Edinburgh is naturally divided by the North Loch into the Old and New Town, communicating by the North Bridge, and Earthen Mound. The New Town having been laid out on a regular plan in 17^7* is one of the finest cities in Europe. The whole has been built within the last 60 years, of beautiful free stone, superior to any in the kingdom. A plan for building, what may be termed an additional New Town be- tween Edinburgh and Leith, and on the east and west of Leith walk, is in progress and rapidly extending, so that in a few years Edinburgh will be joined to its an- cient sea port. Edinburgh being noted for learning and the fine arts, and from its general magnificent appear- ance has been justly called the Modern Atliem.
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Thii " Romantic Town," situated on three separat- ed and distinct rising grounds, is surrounded in all directions, except the north, by a succession of beau- tiful hills. In the immediate vicinity of the Town, on the east is the Calton Hill, ornamented by a lofty Monument to the memory of Nelson, the Observatory, Xew Jail, Bridewell, &c. and, there is laid the foun- dation of the grand National Monument. On the south side of this Hill, the Royal High School is building, and new streets are rising on the declivities. The whole of it is laid out in beautiful walks and ter- races. The various views from these walks are no- ble and extensive, commanding both the Old and New Towns, the Firth of Forth, and adjacent country, — the Shipping in Leith Roads, and the mouth of the Firth, with the German Ocean, and Fife Hills in the distance ; altogether presenting a combination of rich scenery, which has been compared to the famed view of the Bay of Naples.
Near the City, on the east, rises Arthur's Seat, to the height of 822 feet above the level of the sea, and from its peculiar shape called the Lion. On the south side of this hill, is a perpendicular rock, exhibiting a grand range of Basaltic columns of a pentagonal or hexagonal form, 50 to 60 feet high, and five feet in diameter. Adjoining to this hill on the west, Salis- bury Craigs present to the city, a green slopping de- clivity, crowned by a lofty terrace with a front of bro- ken rocks and precipices, presenting one of the finest natural ornaments of this romantic town. The beau- tiful eminence of Corstorphine Hill, finely wooded, rising in the midst of rich vallies, rears its summit on the west ; near to this on the south-west, is the beau-
115
tifully wooded hill of Craig Lochart. The hills of Braid and Craigniillar are in the neighbourhood, on the south, and south-east ; and the extensive range of the Pentland Hills, at a distance of five miles on the south, rear their lofty summits to the height of 1450, to 1/00 feet above the level of the sea. These hills form a magnificent amphitheatre, in which stands the Metro- polis of North Britain.
The abundance of building materials found in the immediate vicinity of the City, particularly stone and lime of superior quality, have in an eminent de- gree, given a beauty and stability to the edifices of Edinburgh, no where excelled, and justifies the appellation bestowed upon it, of the " City of Pa- laces." From the facility afforded by the natural declivities of both Old and New Town, in making sewers, and underground works, for carrying off the soil, the former has now got free of its old reproach, and the latter is one of the cleanest Cities in Europe. In the year 1/53, Edinburgh occupied nearly the same extent of ground which it had done for centuries be- fore. Since that period, it has been enlarged to three times its bulk. During the last thirty years, parti- cularly the improvements both in the Old and New Town, have been astonishing. Streets, Squares, Chur- ches, and public edifices, have risen in rapid succes- sion ; old and inconvenient buildings have been re- moved, and replaced by elegant houses ; and the pave- ments and foot-paths improved and renewed.
It would be superfluous to attempt a description of all the improvements and public buildings that have been made and finished within the last fifty years. The Regent Bridge is the most splendid of the re-
cent' impfbvements in Edinburgh ; this bridge is 'M a Tine with Prince^ Street, and by a road cut into the rock on the east side of the Calton Hill, looking down upon the Old Town ; forms a new, elegant, and roman- tic approach to the City, from the east. This bridge was founded in 1819. fn this street are situated-, the Post Ofe, Stamp Oflrce, Waterloo Hotel, &e< built in the first style of architectural elegance, and afford- ing ah easy communication with the beautiful walks ant terraces, around the Calton Hill. The College when completed, will be for elegance and magnitude, superior to any building of its kind in the world . The new buildings for the accommodation of the Courts of Law, in the Parliament Square, are on a grand scale ; and when completed, by the additions intended to be made on the space left vacant by the great fires in 1824, will be the most magnificent suit of buildings in Edin-
The venerable and stately Church of St Giles, forming t he north side of the Parliament Square, is also to b't* improved. The County Hall, Advocates' Library, &c. is an extensive and beautiful group of building
Edinburgh is not a Manufacturing Town, in the ge- neral meaning of the term. It has a tew manufac- tures of Silk, Linen, Shawls, Stockings, &c— these may be stated as employing six to seven hundred looms. There are Several Cast Iron Foundries, Brass Founders, Mill Wrights, Machine Makers, &c. The Printing and Publishing of Books, are important branches of trade. — This trade, with its attendants of Book-binding, Bookselling, and Stationary, is now can ied on to a great extent. In the year Yfll&i the,! e
117
were only six Printing Houses in Edinburgh j the number of Presses row, are from 180 to 200 ; and the works executed here, are not surpassed in ele- gance and correctness by any in Europe.
The Courts of Law, and the University, are the chief supports of the City, £nd the great resort of fa- milies from all parts of the island, attracted hither by the fame of its academies and schools, are the princi- pal dependance of the tradesmen, and shopkeepers.
The commerce of Edinburgh, is not so considera- ble as might be expected in the metropolis of Scot- land ; yet from its being the resort of the opulent and gay from all quarters, the diffusion of the circulating medium is extensive, and its money transactions are numerous and important. There are five public Banking Companies, namely, the Bank of Scotland, the Royal Bank of Scotland, the British Linen Com- pany, the Commercial Bank, and the National Bank ; besides a number of private Banks of great respecta- bility. All the public Banks issue promissory notes of various value, but none under one Pound sterling, payable on demand, either in specie, or Bank of Eng- land notes. Two of the private Banks only, issue notes, viz. Sir William Forbes and Company, and Ramsay s, Bonars and Co. The other private banks, seven in number, discount Bills, and employ their capital in all the various branches of the banking business.
No city of its size contains more literary men than Edinburgh, whose reputation stands pre-eminent in every branch of literature, and it has long been famed over the world, for its Medical School and establish-
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ments. ?t possesses also numerous Societies and Institutions, Religious, Philosophical, and Literary, and many for the improvement of the arts and scien- ces, and others which embrace every object of na- tional utility and interest. The education of the poor is amply provided for, by the many establishments for that purpose ; and in no city are charitable institu- tions more numerous ; these comprehend receptacles for the alleviation, or cure, of every form of human misery.
The Royal Infirmary is a noble building, founded in 1738; and exclusive of its great utility as an hos- pital for patients, from both town and country, it has in an eminent degree, contributed to the celebrity of the Medical School of Edinburgh.
The river, or Water of Leith, takes its rise in the Pent] and Hills, and after a course of fourteen miles, falls into the Firth of Forth, at Leith, forming the harbour of Leith at its junction. This being the on- ly river in the immediate vicinity of the metropolis, the natural beauties of its banks, have been increased by the erection of numerous elegant seats, and exten- sive plantations. Short as the course of this river is, yet within that distance, it gives motion to the machin- ery of upwards of one hundred mills, in its course to the sea.
Besides corn, meal and flour, snuff, lint, and spin- ning mills, there are three large, and four smaller pa- per manufactories; Bleachfields, Distilleries, S^ - neries, Tan-works, and Saw-mills. The Water of Leith runs through a part of the New Town on the north, and is there crossed by two stone bridges* The river north Esk, at a distance of from 6 to 9 miles
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of Edinburgh on the south, has also numerous falls occupied by machinery ; amongst others, there are nine extensive paper manufactories, for writing and printing papers. Almost all of these mills employ the new method, or patent, or web machine, by which three fourths of the former manual labour, is saved in the first formation of the sheet. The neighbourhood of Edinburgh, is the chief seat of the paper manufac- ture in Scotland, from whence large quantities are sent to the London market.
The origin of Edinburgh is lost in the obscurity of ages. The etymology, and the early history of the City are involved in equal obscurity ; the most pro- bable conjecture, is that which derives the name from the compound Gaelic word, Dun-Edin, or Edwins- burgh ; a name by which it is still known in the High- lands of Scotland. The Castle of Edinburgh is men- tioned in Scottish history, as the place where Queen Margaret, widow of Malcolm Canmore, died in the year 1093. The first traces of Edinburgh as a Town, are found in a charter granted by David the First, in 1128, in favour of certain Canons Regular, for whom he founded the Abbey of Holyrood-house ; where it is styled Burgo meo de Edwinesburg. The first Parliament held here, was in the year 1216. Edward the First having carried off, or destroyed the records of the country in 1295, render this period of its his- tory dark and uncertain.
In the year 1392, Robert the First granted to Edin- burgh, the town of Leith, with its harbour and mills.
The City of Edinburgh in the thirteenth century, was confined to a very limited space, around the Cas-
120
tie Hill, where the houses were crowded together, more for the sake of being under the protection of the Castle, than from choice of situation, and appears to have been extended gradually to the east and south west of the fortress. It was for the first time, sur- rounded by a wall in 1450, when James the Second granted the inhabitants a charter to fortify the Town ; and about the same time, presented the incorpofra- ted trades with a standard, which still exists, known by the name of the Blue Blanket ; this wall was again built, and the circuit extended, in 1571. All the houses in the old town are of a great height ; eight flats, or stories, as they are here called, are common, and some are ten, and even twelve stories highk This uncommon elevation seems to have arisen from the confined space on the middle ridge forming the High Street, and from the desire to be near to the Castle. The lands, or houses in the wynds or lanes, on the declivities on each side of this street, are also very high ; these lands have a common stair, giving access to the separate lodgings or flats, and it is not uncom- mon to find from 18 to 24 families in the same buil- ding ; thus rendering these crowded abodes, hot only Unhealthy and uncomfortable, but dangerous -from fife.
The land in the neighbourhood of the capital ts in the highest state of cultivation, and rents high for gar- den ground and villas. The modern mansions and gentlemen's seats are numerous and splendid. In the immediate neighbourhood, may be noticed the houses of Bel mount, Beechwood, Clermiston, and others ; Coilinton House and Dreghorti, Red hall,
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Hailes, and Spylaw $ Dal m ahoy, the principal seat of the Earl of Morton ; and Hatton, formerly belonging to the Earl of Lauderdale. To the east" of the me- tropolis is Prestonfield, and the House of Dudding- ston, the elegant mansion of the Earl of Abercorn. Duddingston Loch is a beautiful and romantic sheet of water, near this mansion, at the foot of Arthur's Seat.
One of the most remarkable of the recent events in the history of Edinburgh, and in our national annals, is the visit of HisMajesty George the Fourth to Scotland, and honouring the Palace of his ancestors with his presence. On the 14th August 1822, the Royal George, having His Majesty on board, anchored in Leith Roads. While here His Majesty received the melancholy intelligence of the death of the Marquis of Londonderry. The weather being unfavourable His Majesty did not land till the 15th about noon. He was dressed in an Admiral's uniform, with a Thistle and sprig of Heath on his hat ; and a superb St Andrew's Cross, presented to him by Sir Walter Scott, in name of the Ladies of Edinburgh. This evening the town of Leith was most superbly illuminated. The pro- cession to Edinburgh by Leith Walk was magnificent ; and at Gayfield Place His Majesty was received by the Lord Provost and Magistrates, who, at a tempo- rary barrier, delivered to him the Keys of the City. The cavalcade, after traversing a part of the new town, arrived, by the Regent Bridge, Calton, and Ab- bey Hill, at the ancient Palace of the Scottish Kings ; which His Majesty entered, amidst the deafening shouts of triumph of apopulation remarkable forloyalty
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and attachment to their Kings, — of discharges of cannon placed upon the the Calton Hill and the Craigs, on both of which the Royal Banner proudly waved, as well as by a royal salute from the Castle ; after a short stay, His Majesty went to Dalkeith House, which had been fitted up for his residence.* On the 15th the King remained at Dalkeith House, where he repeatedly expressed himself highly delighted with his residence, with the reception he had met with on his landing, and the orderly and decorous appearance of his Scottish subjects, and the intellectual dignity of their manner. A most brilliant illumination took place in Edinburgh this evening, never exceeded on any former occasion. On Saturday the 17th His Ma- jesty held a Levee — the attendance on which was most numerous and splendid. The King, in compliment to the Country, appeared in complete Highland cos- tume, made of the Royal Stuart Tartan. The Com- pany of Royal Archers did the duty of Body Guards.
• Dalkeith House stands about six miles south from Edinburgh, in the immediate vicinity of the Town of Dalkeith, on the site of an old Castle, once the property of the Douglas Family, which, when occupied by the Regent Morton, during the minority of James the Sixth, was called the Lion's Den. The park is much admired for its extent, and the beauty of its scenery ; the trees within it are large, venerable, and disposed in groups, that afford a shelter from the elements to the numerous animals inhabiting it, which enjoy a perfect immunity from every violence. The tw6 beautiful and christaline rivers of North and South Esk, after meandering through grounds the most classical and romantic, enter the park, the one in front, the other in rear of the palace, each flowing through a dell, exhibiting (every natural and artificial beauty, and uniting a little below the palace, roll their combined streams through the remainder of the grounds.
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At the Levee not less than 2000 persons were pre- sented. On Monday the 19th His Majesty held a Court, and Closet Audience at Holyrood Palace, when many loyal addresses were presented. On the 20th the King held a Drawing Room, which was attended by about 500 ladies of the most distinguished rank, fashion, and beauty in Scotland. On the 22d His Majesty visited the Castle. On this occasion the streets presented a scene of extraordinary animation. The Regalia of Scotland (which had been previously removed to Holyrood from the Castle), was carried in procession, and afforded to the delighted populace a sight of their long lost Crown and Sceptre. The procession was most impressive, — it was splendid without being gaudy ; and while the variety of the different costumes was admirably calculated for ef- fect, the judicious mixture of the Clans with their tar- tan habiliments, and of the assembled troops, formed a happy relief to the official splendour which marked the other parts of the pageant. His Majesty was dressed in a Field Marshall's uniform. The King- ascended the upper platform placed upon the half moon battery, where he gave three cheers, waving his hat ; and was cheered by the immense multitude who occupied the Castle Hill, the streets, and the surrounding elevations. On the 23d His Majesty reviewed the whole Volunteer Cavalry and Yeoman- ry of the principal lowland districts, on the Sands of Portobello. Tn the evening the King attended a splen- did Ball, given by the Peers, in the Assembly Rooms, George Street. On the 24th His Majesty honoured the City by his presence at a splendid Banquet, given
124
by the Lord Provost, Magistrates, and Town Coun- cil, in the Parliament House. On Sunday the 25th, the King attended Divine Service in the High Church of St Giles. In his way from the Palace to Chorch, he was received by the populace of Edinburgh, with that reverence and respect which the Scotch pay to the Sabbath, — the people reverently took off their hats, but not a voice was raised to hail his appear- ance ! Oireat as their exultation most have been to behold their Sovereign in the midst of them, the sen- timent of piety alone predominated ; and of the great multitude collected, not one of them for a moment forgot the divine precept, to keep the Sabbath-day holy. On the 26th His Majesty paid a private visit to the Palace of Holyrood, for the purpose of inspect- ing its apartments ; — same evening he attended a Ball given by the Caledonian Hunt. On the 27th the foundation stone of the National Monument was laid on the Calton hill, with a splendid Masonic Pro- cession, by Commissioners representing His Majesty. On the same day the King visited Melville Castle, the seat of Lord Viscount Melville. His Majesty dined alone at Dalkeith House ; and in the evening visited the Theatre.
On the 28th His Majesty entertained a large party at dinner in Dalkeith House, and on the 29th he took his departure from Port Edgar near Queensferry, after visiting Hopeton House, the princely mansion of the Earl of Hopeton.
It would be difficult to determine, whether the re- ception which His Majesty met with, from his Scot- tish subjects, was more flattering to the King, or ho-
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nourable tp the, people. His Majesty remarked to Lord Lyndoch, after he arrived at the Palace, " that " he had often heard the Scotch were a proud nation ; " and they had reason to be so, for they appeared to " be a nation of Gentlemen \ he himself was proud of M them." The multitude who witnessed the memo- rable spectacle of His Majesty's landing, from all parts of the kingdom, was estimated at 300,000.
Sir William Arbuthnot, Lord Provost of Edinburgh, was Knighted at the Banquet ; and Captain Adam Ferguson, and Mr Henry Raeburn, the celebrated portrait painter, were Knighted at Hopeton House
The antiquities of Edinburgh and its vicinity, are numerous, and consist chiefly of the remains of re- ligious establishments ; from the number and varie- ty of these ruins, they cannot be described in a work like this. The Castle of Graigmillar is a ruin of great antiquity, abouttwo miles south from Edinburgh* it was founded in 1212, and was at times the resi- dence of Mary Queen of Scots, — it is seated on a rock 274 feet above the level of the sea, and com- mands a most extensive view. A small room in one of the upper turrets, is shewn here as Queen Mary's Bed room, and it is worthy of remark, that in all the places where she has resided, the rooms which she occupied are of very small size, this one is only seven feet by five, yet has two windows, and a fire place. A Vil- lage in the vicinity still retains the name of little France, from having been the residence of Queen Mary's French attendants. Although the increase of the population of Edinburgh, within the last 50 years, has been ^re&t and rapid, yet
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it has not kept pace with the increase and extent of the buildings, during the same periods This may be accounted for, by remarking the rapid strides of im- provement made in the comforts of life and refinement, demanding more domestic accommodation than was required half a eentury ago. To this cause may be added, the great and constant demand for lodgings, or temporary accommodation for students and occasional visitors to the City, — these lodging houses consist of a number of apartments, which must be rented, although they are only partially occupied, for a season ; or, may remain unoccupied for the whole year ; and there are many houses now possessed by one family, which, 50 years ago, would have accommodated a dozen. Edinburgh has fourteen Churches, and seven Chapels of Ease, belonging to the Establishment, and one Gaelic Chapel; there are six Chapels belonging to the Church of England. The Dissenters are very nu- merous,— -there are six places of worship belonging to the United Associate Synod, one to the Associate Synod, one Original Burghers, one Original Anti- burghers, four Relief Congregations, one Cameronian, two Independents, four Baptist, one Methodist, one Roman Catholic, one Berean, one Unitarian, one Glas- site, one Society of Friends, one New Jerusalem Temple, and one Jews' Synagogue.
The population of Edinburgh, including the parishes of South and North Leith, is thus stated at the follow- ing periods. In the year 17^5, 57,220, in the year •1775, 69,039. These results were taken from a cal- culatipfi of the number of i families,, reckoning six as
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the average of each family, But from an accurate survey made in 1791, the number of Families were founi to be 18,654, and the number of Inhabitants 74,886, which gives an average of four to each family only ; this comes nearer to the truth, and agrees with the calculations of f)r Price, and those of the Statis- tical account of Scotland. In the year
1801, the Population including Leith, was 82,560.
1811, 102,987.
1821, 138,235.
Edinburgh has a weekly market on Wednesday, for Corn, Cattle and Horses, and an annual Fair, held on the second Monday of November, called All Hal- low Fair.
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E L G I N.
Elgin is a Royal Burgh, and the County Town of the shire of Elgin, or Moray. It is 190 miles north of Edinburgh, 63 north-west of Aberdeen, 9 west of Fochabers, 12 east of Forres, and 42 miles east-north- east of Inverness.
The municipal constitution of the Town consists of a Provost, 4 Bailies, and 12 Councillors. It has a Dean of Guild, and six Incorporated Trades, and joins with Banff, Gullen, lnverary, and Kintore, in re- turning a Member to Parliament. The revenue of the Town is about £JQQ, and is at present very eco- nomically and judiciously disposed of.
Elgin boasts of a very high antiquity. It is said to have been built by Helgy, General of the army of Sigurd, the Norwegian Earl of Orkney, who con- quered Caithness, Sutherland, Ross, and Moray, a- bout the year 927- At what time this town was erec- ted into a Royal Bargh, is quite uncertain. The old- est charter extant, is from Alexander the Second in 123 I, who grants to the Burgesses of Elgin* a Guild
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of Merchants, with as extensive privileges as were enjoyed by any other Burgh in Scotland. Charles the First in 1633, establishes and confirms all the grants of his royal predecessors. In 1620, James the Sixth granted to the Town of Elgin, the hospital of Maison Dieu* formerly a popish establishment ; the revenue of which, now goes partly to the support of schools, and partly to provide four poor men with a house, garden, gown, and four bolls of barley to each.
The trade of this burgh is not extensive, being en- tirely dependant on the population of the agricultural district, by which it is every where surrounded. One Woollen manufactory, belonging to Mr Johnston (at present, 1827,) may D^ s&id to be the only species of manufacture carried on. An important Freestone Quarry has lately been opened on the property of the Earl of Fife, in the Quarrelwood, near Elgin, by an Aberdeen Company, who propose to send the stone to Edinburgh, London, &c. &c. The colour is beau- tiful, and the surface and grain of the stone, is the finest in the island. It rises in vast blocks and mas- ses, some of them 34 feet long, and four feet square, and slabs have been got 12 feet by 10, and six inches thick. From this and the adjoining Quarry, all the stone with which the public buildings in Elgin have been erected, and which are so highly and justly ad- mired, has been taken ; for ornamental Architecure, there is no stone that we are acquainted with, so per- fectly adapted.
Elgin is pleasantly situated on the banks of the Lossie, about five miles above its influx into the Mo- ray Firth. It consists of one principal Street^ about
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one mile in length, running east and west, and having six or seven cross Streets and lanes. At the east end of the Town stands its noble Cathedral, founded in 1221, and richly endowed ; magnificent and elegant though in ruins. It was in the olden time, called the '*• Lanthorn of the North," and is at present the most beautiful of all the Scottish Cathedrals. In the mid- dle of the High Street, a new Church has been just erected, on a Grecian plan, with a portico at the west, and a handsome tower at the east end. This is one of the most commodious, best arranged, and neatest churches, probably in Scotland. It is formed of po- lished ashler from the adjoining quarry, and does great credit to the architect, Mr Simpson, and the buil- der, Mr Fiaser. Proceeding westward in the High Street, we find the new Assembly Rooms, built of the same beautiful material, for the Trinity Lodge of Free Masons, under the direction of Mr Burns of Edin- burgh ; and distinguished for their convenient arrange- ments and just proportions. At the extreme west end, stands, on a gentle eminence, " Gray's Hospital," fel- ine sick poor of the town and county of Elgin, and forming an admirable vista to the High Street, and the surrounding country. In the vicinity of the Town are scattered, with no unsparing hand, a great variety of elegant cottages of the most tasteful forms, embel- lished with a profusion of shrubbry, and excellent fruit gardens ; giving to Elgin a minuature resemblance of the celebrated Cheltenham. At the extreme east end of this Town, is intended to be erected a noble institution for the support of the aged poor, male and female, and for the support and education of poor children, until the age of 14.
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The funds for this purpose, amount to the splendid sum of «£70}000, and were appropriated by the late Major General Anderson, who, from a very humble station in the Indian Army, rose by his talents and conduct, to that rank, and to the acquisition of this princely fortune. When *' Anderson's Institution" is completed, we do not know a small Town in Scot- land which will possess so many and such elegant pub- lic buildings as Elgin.
Situated in the midst of a rich and fertile country, blessed with the finest climate in the kingdom ; and possessing one of the best regulated and well attended Academies, and several excellent Female Boarding Schools ; having cheap and plentiful markets, and good Society at a moderate expense ; Elgin is natur- ally drawing to itself, all the spare population of the surrounding country, whose objects are the educa- tion of families, early associations, or personal com-: fort.
Besides the Church belonging to the Establish- ment, there is an English Chapel, two meeting houses in connexion with the Secession, one Independent, one Methodist, and one Roman Catholic Chapel.
There are branches of the Aberdeen Banking Com- pany, and British Linen Company.
Elgin has two weekly markets, on Tuesdays and Fridays, and annual Fairs are held on the first Tues-s day and Wednesday after the new moon, following the 18th day of February, on Thursday in Passion week, the last Tuesday and Wednesday in May, the first Tuesday and Wednesday after the 24th July, the first Tuesday and Wednesday in October, and
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the first Tuesday and Wednesday in December, all
old stile, except the last.
The Population of the Town and Parish irf
1811, was 4602, 1821, 5308,
And since then has considerably increased.
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FORFAR.
Forfar is a Royal Burgh of considerable antiquity, in the Parish of Forfar ; it is the County Town of Forfarshire, and is the seat of a Presbytery.
It is 14 miles North of Dundee, 12| South West of Brechin, 15 West of Arbroath, and 56 miles North by East of Edinburgh. The ground on which the Town is situated is uneven, and the streets, as in most old towns, are irregular.
The Town has been greatly extended within these few years, and the new Houses have much improved its appearance. The Church, which is situated nearly in the centre of the Town, is capable of containing 2000 persons,- — an elegant spire was added to the Church in 1814, and forms the principal ornament of the Town.
Besides the Parish Church, there are three other places of worship in the Town, viz. a Scottish Epis- copal Chapel, a United Secession Church, and an In- dependent Meeting House.
The Sheriff Courts are held in the Town. A Court Room, and other accommodations necessary for public business, have been recentty erected at the expense of the County. The Building is elegant* and well a-
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dapted for the object of its erection. The Town Hall and the Prison are connected with the new Building.
On the North side of the Town is an eminence, on which stood the Castle of Forfar, the occasional resi- dence of Malcolm Canmore. To mark this spot, the Magistrates several years ago, removed to it the an- cient Cross of Forfar.
The Loch of Forfar lies to the West of the Town ; it is about two miles in length, the breadth does not exceed, at any part of it, one fourth of a mile.
The government of the Town is vested in a Pro- vost, Two Bailies, a Treasurer, Eleven Merchant Councillors, and the Deacons of the Incorporated Trades, Forfar joins with Perth, Dundee, St An- drews, and Cupar in Fife, in returning a Member to Parliament.
The inhabitants of Forfar are principally employed in tbe manufacturing of Osnaburghs and Linen Sheet- ings. The goods made in the Town have long main- tained a high character in the Market ; and this ch> cumstance has contributed to the increase of the trade of tbe town. The distance of any sea port, and the price of coals, which are all sea borne, are inconve- niences which have been much felt, and surveys have been made to ascertain the practicability and expense of making a Canal, or a Rail-way to Arbroath or Mon- trose. The execution of either of the plans, would prove of incalculable advantage, pot to Forfar alone, but to the district of Strathmore.
The weekly Market is held on Saturday, and Fairs are held on the last Wednesday in January, the first Wednesday in May, O. S., the 26th June, the first
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Tuesday in July, the first Tuesday in August, the last Wednesday in September, the 29th day of Octo- ber, and the first Wednesday in November, some of which are well frequented.
Dundee New Bank, Dundee Union Bank, and Ar- broath Bank, have branches established in Forfar.
There is a commodious Parish School Room in the Town, besides a neat building and ample play ground, for the Burgh Schools. This Building was erected, and the Salaries of the Teachers are paid by the Town-Council.
The Parish of Forfar is about five miles in length, from north to south, and nearly five miles in breadth. The general appearance is level, with the exception of the Hill of Balmashanar, and the Hill of Lawer. The soil in the immediate neighbourhood of the Town is light and sandy, but clayey towards the south of the Parish. The Loch of Restennet has been drained, to obtain the Marl found in its bed. At Res- tennet, which lies to the East ol the Town, there was a Priory ; the ruins of which still exist, and shew it to have been of considerable extent. Freestone is found in the Parish.
The Population of the Town and Parish was, in
1801,5167.
1811,5652.
1821, 589/. By a Census made since that period, the population exceeded 6000, — the population of the Town and Burgh-lands is about 5000.
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FORRES.
Forres is a Royal Burgh, in the Parish of that name, and County of Moray or Elginshire. It lies 12 miles west by south of Elgin, 11 east by north of Nairn, 20 miles east of Fort George, 32 north east of Inverness, 90 north west of Aberdeen, and 156 north by west of Edinburgh.
The situation of the Town is very delightful, cover- ing the crest and sides of a low ridge, which, sloping to the north and south, shows numerous gardens, in- termingled with the houses, its abrupt termination being crowned by the ruins of a Castle, from whose Terrace the whole of the surrounding country is visi- ble, stretching around in a rich plain, bounded by Wooded or fertile banks, above which rise the distant mountains. A rivulet, issuing from the woods, near Sanquhar House, winds round two sides of the Town. It is crossed by three handsome Stone Bridges, lead- ing from the different outlets.
The High Street, which extends about three-fourths of a mile east and west, presents many handsome pri- vate buildings. The Jail and Town Houss in the cen-
140
tre, fs remarkable fur its Tower and Cupola of curious, but not inelegant Architecture. Further to the east a building is in progress of erection, for the joint purpose of the St Lawrence Lodge of Masons, and Assembly Rooms, which, for interior arrangement, extent, and the elegance of its Facade, ma}7 challenge competition with most buildings in the north of Scotland. Still farther to the east stands Anderson's Institution, bufft of polished free stone, with a handsome spire. To the west is situated the Parish Church, which, when a proposed Tower is added, will further embellish the Town. There are also two handsome and com- modious Chapels for the Members of other religious professions. The comfort and cleanliness of the place is much improved by means of common sewersr which extend under the High Street, and are carried along some of the larger Streets or Lanes, which branch from it.
It is unceitain when Forres was erected into a Roy- al Burgh, but ancient records mention it as a Town of considerable importance so early as the thirteenth century. But before that period, it must have been a place of some consequence, since, in the tenth century, King Duffus brought robbers, from Ross, and Caith- ness, to be there executed.
The Town is governed by a Provost, three Bailies, a Dean of Guild, and eleven other Councillors, mak- ing in all sixteen. It joins with Fortrose, Nairn and Inverness, in returning a Member to Parliament. Besides the Established Church, this Town contains a Meeting House in connexion with the the United Secession, and an Independent Chapel. There is a Parochial Grammar School, where Latin, Greek, &c.
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are taught, as also Geography, Mathematics, &c. There is a seminary under the patronage of the Ma- gistracy for the Education of young Ladies.
Some years ago, John Anderson, Esquire, late of Glasgow, and a native of a neighbouring Parish, (Kinloss,) left considerable funds for building and en- dowing a School for the Education of the children of the poor of the Parishes of Kinloss, Rafford, and Forres, This building was finished in 1S24, and is called Anderson's Institution. Some legal diffi- culties have prevented the full designs of the Testa- tor from being carried into execution, but they are nearly overcome, and a further benefaction to the same Institution gives promise of an extension to the Establishment, so that Teachers of eminence may give such a celebrity to it, as to attract a number of families, whom, but for the want of such a seminary, would have long since taken advantage of the cheapness of living, the salubrity of the air, and the beauty of the neighbourhood.
There are several Charitable Societies, the most valuable is that for the Relief of Indigent and Aged Widows, established and administered by some be- nevolent Ladies of the place. There are two Ma- son Lodges ; and an annual Meeting is held, called the Trafalgar Club, of which the Duke of Gordon is Pa- tron and President.
The Manufactures of Forres are very limited. Linen yarn was formerly exported in great quantities, but that branch of Trade has almost entirely fallen off, and the Trade of the Town is now chiefly domestic.
There is a branch of the British Linen Company Bank.
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The Market days are Tuesday and Friday, when there is an excellent supply of Meat^and Poultry, with Fruit and Vegetables in their various seasons. There is an abundance of Fish carried from the vil- lage of Findhorn, situated at the mouth of the Bay and River of the same name, about five miles distant. Findhorn is the Port of Forres, from which Coals, articles ot Merchandise, &c. are brought, and from which Packets for London and Edinburgh, sail every fortnight.
Fairs are held on the first Wednesday in February, second Wednesday in April. 25th and 26th days of June,the 10th day of August, or the Wednesday there * after, second Wednesday and Thursday in November, all old stile, and on St John's day, if on a Wednesday, Thursday or Friday, otherwise it is held on the Wednesday thereafter.
The Parish of Forres, is about four miles long, by two and a half in breadth ; the soil is generally arable and fertile to the West and North, and is let at the rate of from 5 to £] per acre, — but it is poor, and co- vered with heath, to the South and East. The Town lies nearly in the centre of the Parish, and the river Findhorn, which abounds in Salmon, forms its northern boundary. The Fishings, which were formerly pro- ductive and valuable, have of late years become less so. The river, though navigable for small boats, to within two miles and a half of the Town, is seldom used for transport. There is one Quarry of Lime- stone in the Parish, and one of a hard stone applica- ble to building, but none of Freestone have as yet been found suited to such purposes.
There are several gentlemen's seats in the Parish,
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of which Tannachy, on the plain to the north of the Town, and Sanquhar House to the south, are the most remakable ; the latter, embowered in wood, looks through a noble vista on the Town, the view stretch- ing far and wide over the Moray Firth, and the moun- tains of Sutherland and Ross.
The environs of Forres, even within the Parish, af- ford many beautiful rides and walks, and if extended beyond its bounds, the banks of the Findhorn, towards its source, offers some of the finest river scenery in Scotland. But the chief attraction as a promenade, are the Cloven, or Cluny Hills, which arise to some considerable height, immediately behind the Town to the south. The highest of these Hills, which, as their name imports, rise in an isolated cluster, is crowned by an octagonal Tower, dedicated to the memory of Admiral Lord Nelson. To this, by personal labour, and pecuniary contribution, the Inhabitants of Forres have carried roads, which, sometimes winding around a shoulder, at others, forming Terraces, by embracing a whole hill, finally meet near the Tower, amidst thriving plantations, which cover the greater part of them. It is almost impossible to describe with effect, the splendid view from the summit ; it comprises all the elements of grand and picturesque scenery, plain and wood, sea and mountain. It must suffice to say, that part of nine Counties are distinctly visible, as the more distant propect ; whilst a home view of twelve gentlemen's seats, circle within a small radius round its base.
When Alexander, Earl of Buchan, natural son of Robert the Second, better known by the name of the Wolf of Badenocb, burnt Forres, in the four!eenth
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century , no mention is made of a Castle. It is there- fore probable, that the ruin which at present stands on the Castle Hill, is not an edifice of a remote date j a supposition strengthened by its style of architec- ture. According to Buchanan, Culenus, successor to King Duffus, destroyed the Castle, and put the go- vernor to death, for the foul murder of that King in the tenth century, within its walls. It is probable therefore, that no other building was erected on its site, until the one at present covering it.
About a quarter of a mile from the Town, on the Elgin Road, lies a stone clasped with iron,— a species of repulsive interest is attached to it, from marking the spot where Witches were executed.
The most remarkable of the Danish Monuments, is Sweno's Stone, or Pillar, near Forres. It is ad- mitted by all Tourists, to surpass in elegance and grandeur, all the other Obelisks in Scotland; and is said to be the finest Gothic Monument in Europe. It is thus described by Mr Pennant. "It is three "feet ten inches broad, and one foot three inches *' thick ; the height above ground, is twenty three " feet ; below, as is said, twelve or fifteen. On one " side, are numbers of rude figures of animals, and ft armed men, with colours flying ; some of these men " seem bound like captives. On the opposite side " was a cross, included in a circle, and raised above " the surface of the stone. At the foot of the cross, " are two gigantic figures, and on one of the sides is " some elegant fret- work.'' Mr Cordiner in his let- ters on the Antiquities and Scenery of the North of Scotland, has exhibited a fine drawing of this monu- ment. He supposes it to have been erected in me-
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mory of the Peace, concluded between Malcolm the Second, and Canute the Great, in 1012, upon the fi- nal retreat of the Danes from the Province of Moray, of which they had long been in possession.
There is however, a difference of opinion on that head ; some Antiquarians supposing it to have been placed there, to commemorate the death of King Duf- fus, and the execution of his murderers on that spot, and the tenor of the sculpture on the east face, gives strength to the supposition.
Some years ago, when the monument threatened to fall, Lady Anne Campbell, late Countess of Moray, caused it to be set upright, and supported with se- veral steps of Freestone.
It is on a Moor in this neighbourhood, where Shakespeare places the meeting of Macbeth with the Weird Sisters.
The Population of the Town and Parish, in 1801,
was 3114.
1811, 2925.
1821, 3540.
Of this Population, there are in the Town about 2500.
GLASGOW.
Glasgow is a large and populous City, in the Ne- ther Ward of Lanarkshire, on the banks of the River Clyde, west longitude 4° 16', and north latitude 55° 53'; it lies 44 miles west of Edinburgh, 22 east of Greenock, 34 north of Ayr, and 28 miles south-west of Stirling.
Glasgow is one of the most ancient towns in Scot- land ; there is no authentic record in existence, by which the date of its origin can be ascertained. Ma- ny conjectures have been formed, but fortunately tnese speculations are more a matter of curiosity than utility. It is certain, that in the year 560, a Bishop- ric was founded here by St. Mungo, or St. Kentigern, who died in 601, and was buried at the east end of the ground where the Cathedral now stands, and where his tomb is yet to be seen ; if this date be as- sumed as the probable origin ot the Town, it may surely satisfy the most stubborn stickler for the an- tiquity of the place. This Bishopric was erected into an Archi-episcopal See in the year 1484.
Glasgow is said to have been erected into a royal burgh, by William the Lion in 1 172. It however ap- pearsj from an old document extant, that this Town
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was governed by a provost and magistrates in the year 1268, and that they then held Courts of Justice. In 1611 the City received a Charter from James the Sixth, and another from Charles the First in 1636, — these Charters were confirmed by Parliament in 1661, and 1690.
The Trade and industry of the City at a very early period, seems to have been confined chiefly to the produce of the Fishery in the Clyde ; so early as the year 1420, this trade was conducted to a considerable extent, by exchanging with France, their cured Sal- mon and Herrings, for Wine, .Brandy, and Salt ; and they possessed some Shipping so early as 1546, which made captures of the ships of England. In 1667 a Company was formed for the prosecution of the Whale Fishery ; and the Soap manufacture was introduced about the same period.
About the year 1680, we find that the merchants of Glasgow continued to export considerable'quanti- ties ol cured Salmon and Herrings to France ; this commerce must have been carried on in hired vessels from some of the E